T&T: Fw: Watermakers

[Larry N. Brown]

> 1.        I went with a modular unit because I could separate the pump and
> membrane which preserved the storage space in my lazzarette.  I actually 
> got
> more storage space by implementing this larger system then I had with the
> 160.  IF you go with a non-modular system, realize when it needs service 
> you
> will probably be pulling it out of the boat.  If you can't get to it, you
> will be hating life when, not if, something fails.
>
> 2.       The No Frills unit costs less, is easier to install, and has no
> "smart parts" to fail.  It's some plumbing, two pumps, three valves, two
> switches and a membrane.  You flip a valve to sample, turn on the low
> pressure pump, then the high, wait 5 min, taste or test the water, and 
> then
> flip the valve from sample to fill.  When done, if it's going to sit for a
> few weeks you flip another valve and run fresh water through the membrane
> for 5 minutes.  The amount of technology that's required to automate this 
> is
> significant.  All that technology costs money and can fail.  For these
> reasons I went with the No Frills unit.  I don't regret this choice!


Here are some points to consider if you decide to install a watermaker.

(1)  I agree completely with Scott in this post and Marty in a later that 
modular is the way to go. You don't have a "box" to find space for. You 
don't have parts crammed into the minimum possible space; look inside your 
genset's sound shield and you'll get my drift. The modular parts can be 
distributed in different nooks and crannies. Far apart, if necessary. My 
Aquamarine occupies bulkheads and decks in the starboard side of the 
lazarette. The priming pump's 10' forward under the head, the and the raw 
water pickup's on the sea chest in the engine room 10' forward of that. 
Great deal of flexibility.

(2) RO watermakers are as simple in principal as a hand grenade but if you 
buy a box you'll never truly understand it. Assemble a kit and two things 
happen. (A) everything's out in the open. If a fitting develops a slow leak, 
you'll spot it before it causes more damage and (B) You'll completely 
understand how the system works- makes it far easier to trouble shoot.

(3)  Make certain you buy a unit with standard size membranes. Some units 
use proprietary membranes so you have to buy replacements from the 
manufacturer and he can call the shots on price. If you purchase one with 
standard size membranes you can Google around for the cheapest one.

(4) Some people don't realize that the sole difference between a 20 GPH and 
a 40 is that it consists of identical components but it has 2 x 20 GPH 
membranes instead of one. In series. A 60 is 3 such membranes. I installed a 
40 for two reasons. Increased capacity and redundancy. We are light on fresh 
water storage so we need to make a lot of water. Two membranes= twice the 
flow at the same current drain. If one membrane were to puncture, we can 
easily figure out which one it is and re-plumb the system until we get a 
replacement membrane.

Regards,

Larry and Teri
M/V Cigano, 47' Prairie Sundeck Cruiser
Lying: 64 Cypress Road
          Covington, LA