T&T: Allegria in New Bedford ; Waterfire in Providence

[Gregory Han]

So we are in in "well protected" New Bedford, MA , rocking and rolling
in a prolonged SW blow.  New Bedford is one of the few harbors that
actually has a hurricane gate and seawall protecting it from a storm
surge.  It is not needed in this relatively minor storm but the winds
across the fetch of the harbor still makes it uncomfortable in this
outside exposed floating dock.

Well we are mostly off the boat touring anyway. Getting a forecast of
the storm we holed up in the most convenient place to rent a car and
get out and about.  Thank you Enterprise cheap weekend rates.  After
several great weeks of weather (TS Hanna excepted) on Cape Cod, Woods
Hole, Provincetown, Cuttyhunk, Menemsha on Marthas Vinelyard we
started down the Mass coast. We visited not one but two great friends
in Woods Hole  and rode out ATS Hanna in Eel pond.

Marion Ma. is a great stop. The harbors is full of mooring as usual
but they actually have a buoyed area reserved for anchored boats. What
a concept. The town is tiny but good for a PM stroll including the
General Store which has more good stuff per square foot than any I
have seen.  Fresh baked goods, pies and quiches (supplied by local
private bakeries) , veggies and even a fully stocked liquor store with
bottles of Jack Daniels next to the baking soda and canned peas.  This
must be a throwback to some age , "back in the day" as my kids say.
They even had a old style charge account system where locals put it on
the tab instead of using credit cards.

New Bedford is a fine place with a cobbled downtown, a whaling museum
and a US Park Service historic area. After this whaling museum and all
the others on each town we now know all we ever want to know about
whaling.  Portuguese food abounds We ate at Antonio's where a great
plate of fresh fish, stews and stuffed quahogs are available. Average
plate cost $13.  Fresh tasting Vinho Verde Portuguese wine makes a
great accompaniment. Get there early.

Providence. Without our rental car we would be stuck. Rain, fog and
general misery outside. Its not so bad though if you can get away on
land. We went to Providence for the day and had a great time.
Providence by boat was not practical for us since the marina there
needs passage through another storm surge barrier this time one with a
18' overhead clearance.  We went to the Art museum at RISD (Rhode
Island School of Design) and Brown University which are located next
to each other on a bluff overlooking the inlet. What a great town.
The museum is terrific. Very eclectic with modern and classical art
intermixed. There is a lot of furnishings and decorative oriented arts
also. The small but noted impressionist section really is great for
cleansing the palate after the heavier classic stuff.  The tourist
bureau clued us into a few other stops and the festival that was
happening that night along the riverfront.

First though was the Italian quarter. A ten block stretch that is
right out of Little Italy in NYC.  Restaurants, shops and markets
galore. We had already eaten at the RISD student cafeteria ( will we
never learn - ugh ) so we strolled, had a great italian espresso (no
cappuccino after noon if you are a cognoscenti ) stumbled into a huge
italian market. When I am in a place like this Susan must keep a tight
grip on me ("Sombody stop me"). We ended up with coffee, fresh pasta
and ravioli, biscotti, prosciutto  and some wonderful cheeses.

Waterfire in Providence. That was a teaser because boaters perkup when
someone mentions FIRE.  Along the upper part of the river leading into
Providence is a lovely walkway along both side that is a cross between
Venice (Italy of course) and  San Antonio Riverwalk.  On certain
Saturday nights they light bonfires on floating braziers moored in
canal and spaced every 30 feet or so. This goes on for a half mile or
more as the channel winds under bridges, joins another waterway and
passes right by RISD.  The fragrant wood smoke wafts over the crowd
and you close enough to feel the heat from the flames.  The weather
cooperated and the evening was balmy with a full moon. Speakers all
along the waterway place soothing and inspirational music.  Food and
wine is available from a variety of vendors. A younger crowd with many
local college students made for a lively time. There was a separate
stage for a Latin festival and in another spot there was a swing band
giving dance lessons and then playing until midnight on a big stage
and dance loor.  I have never been to a city center festival with as
much class and joy as Waterfire.

Today, Sunday is cool and blustery so off again by car for some
regional sightseeing. We hit NYC Oct 10 and Norfolk by Oct 28 on the
way home


Greg and Susan Han
Allegria -- Krogen Whaleback #16