T&T: Fw: Life Expectancy of ElectraSan

[Larry N. Brown]

What has worked for me is to utilize the
> double 4-0 cable that the Taiwanese used for the engine starter cables. 
> The
> starter on the starboard engine is located about six feet from the L/S, so 
> I
> ran some #2 cable from the starter to the L/S and have had good 
> performance
> from the unit ever since.  Under-voltage will definitely cause
> under-performance and, I'm told, more frequent maintenance!
>
> Bob Peterson
> "Lopaka Nane"
> 47' Lien Hwa CPMY
> San Francisco


I agree with Bob about the current requirement of the LS units. I've used 
them over 10 years on two boats. We're talking around 45 amps draw. Any 
voltage drop at the unit makes the electrodes pull more current and run 
longer which drops the available voltage to the macerator motors and I'm 
certain this isn't good for them. Also burns metal off the electrodes. I 
built a box to hold my 35 gal holding tank, LS unit, salt water injection 
tank and a gp 31 battery. Had about a 2' run from the battery which was kept 
topped up by the echo charger on the Victron 2500.

I still wasn't satisfied with the operation. Fiddly. Carry bags of salt. In 
the end, I pulled it out and replaced it with a Purasan unit. Draws far less 
current than the LS and the biocide tablet , which needs replacing every 
year or so is far cheaper in the long run than replacing electrodes. A 
caveat is that the chemical tank is fairly large and must be mounted at a 
good height over the unit. Oh, and the PS fits into the same footprint of 
the LS. If you already have a freshwater flush unit, this might be the way 
to go.

Just saw Al's post about indirectly testing the unit. If you have a clamp-on 
multimeter you can check the current draw. If the electrodes are working 
properly, you'll see a sharp current spike. Like 45 amps. Call Raritan and 
talk to the guru there Peggy Hall mentioned. I don't remember the precise 
numbers but when you activate the unit, you'll see a relatively low current 
draw- like 8 amps as the motors start running. When the controller energizes 
the electrodes, the current goes up to around 45 amps for about a minute. 
You don't see the 8-10, the motors are gone. Don't see the 45, the electrode 
pack is gone.

Oh, and just buy the clamp-on multi-meter if you don't already have it; 
it'll soon pay for itself. I have an Extech EZ 730. Amazon has it at right 
at $150  http://www.amazon.com/Extech-EX730-Ampere-Clamp-Meter/dp/B000BF53YM 
Make certain you get the 730 which measures AC and DC current.  I wouldn't 
leave home without it.

Regards,

Larry and Teri
M/V Cigano, 47' Prairie Sundeck Cruiser
Lying: 64 Cypress Road
          Covington, LA


PS- The 2 yo LS unit and salt tank injector with about 6 month's use on it 
is in my shed. Could make a fairly good price on it. Peggy Hall says it's 
worth about 1/2 a new one.

L