T&T: Cummins 5.9 High Output Alternator Large frame & belt routing

[Scott H.E. Welch]

Mike Maurice <mikem at yachtsdelivered.com> writes:
>A brand new installed Rule Bilge pump that won't pump. There appears to 
>be nothing wrong with it. But, the voltage goes to zero when the on 
>switch is activated, but if it's a short the breaker is not tripping...
>And it's wired with the correct polarity; just to stay a step ahead of 
>you super sleuths, the pump was replaced and still the same result.

I'd bet 99:1 that this was caused by a corroded fuse holder or a failed
breaker, resulting in a high-resistance connection. The quickest way to
detect this is to place a voltmeter across the fuse or breaker with the load
off. Voltage should be zero. The apply the load and see what the voltage is.
If it's anything other than zero you have found your culprit.

BTW, in my toolbox I carry a bunch of 18" leads with insulated alligator
clips on both ends. Radio Shack sells them for 75 cents each in ten-packs.
Get the larger ones, about 20 gauge. In a pinch you can use them to hook up
radios, bypass fuses, hold meter leads in place, and even jumper busted
starter keyswitches. Well worth the money. In this case you would just jumper
the bad fuse or breaker.

Scott Welch
FirstClass Product Manager
www.firstclass.com

"Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn
out." - John Wooden