T&T: Cummins 5.9 High Output Alternator Large frame & belt routing

[Mike Maurice]

I am constantly amazed at the number of incorrect equipment 
installations that I run across. You describe the water pump as running 
BACKwards? That's not only amazing, it's down right mind boggling; and 
it actually appeared to work?

My list of Incredible Mysteries, from the last trip alone, is enough to 
give a fellow the willies.

A brand new installed Rule Bilge pump that won't pump. There appears to 
be nothing wrong with it. But, the voltage goes to zero when the on 
switch is activated, but if it's a short the breaker is not tripping...
And it's wired with the correct polarity; just to stay a step ahead of 
you super sleuths, the pump was replaced and still the same result.

The 3/4 hp backup pump which has worked for some years?, fails and it's 
temperature is climbing. None of the breakers in the AC main panel 
completely cut the power to it, and the temperature on the outside of 
the case is nearing 180F, I am forced to disconnect the wiring.

The boat's generator is 3 phase and the panel is 3 phase, but the 
inverter is wired into all 3 phases... what? There are high voltages on 
the neutral; does this have anything to do with the pump's problems, I 
may never know.

The turbo charger housing splits open. The crack is visible because the 
heat wrappings have not been installed correctly; if they had, the crack 
would not have been visible and we would have continued on until the 
engine might have been severely damaged. The crack is likely the result 
of severe overheating, where the turbo was red hot. Most likely occurred 
with one of the several previous owners. More hairline cracks were 
discovered on close examination.

The turbo housing is attached to the exhaust line in such a way that 
there is at least 50 pounds of weight hanging off the end of the turbo.

This makes about the 10th turbo failure I have encountered, they are 
becoming more frequent. I could do without them.

The 12 volt DC panel is an AC type panel, but there is no indication 
that the breakers are rated for DC. As I recall DC ratings are not the 
same as AC ratings, Arild would know about this.

The owner was incredulous when I reported the turbo crack and just to 
prove the point I sent him a picture taken with my cell phone, while we 
were still 12 miles offshore. He did not know how to zoom in on the 
picture as he is not computer savvy, but he is learning fast.

The anchor winch is hydraulic and so quick that it takes the reflexes of 
a rattlesnake to manage the up and down and prevent it from tearing the 
boat apart.

There are 2 automatic freon fire extinguishers in the engine room. Only 
one is allowed as they may not fire in unison.

The engine stops without warning, caused by turning on the nav and 
masthead lights at the same instant. There may be an automatically 
resetting circuit breaker powering the entire pilothouse panel. In any 
event the breaker takes about 15 minutes to reset. This problem is 
repeatable, but not every time. Go figer. I try to demonstrate this to 
the owner, the panel refuses to perform. Maybe it hates me. He thinks 
it's hilarious. He can, you can't.

The engine stops because it requires DC power to keep the fuel solenoid 
open. There is an emergency bypass where you turn a screw to force the 
valve into the open position; a process which takes about 60 seconds. 
Single engine boats should not be wired up in such a way as to allow 
such a failure to endanger the boat.

This is not a complete list, but there must be a psychic message in all 
this. I am not smart enough to sort it all out, maybe the rest of you 
will learn something... that I haven't.

Regards,
Mike

_____________________________________
Capt. Mike Maurice
Tigard Oregon(Near Portland)