T&T: Steel SCUBA tanks

[Bill Allen]

The heating is caused when filling them the faster the hotter they get. 
Steel tanks when you wash the salt off them (which you should do to any 
tank) are not a problem rust wise. All the scuba steel cylinders I'm aware 
of are galvinized and many painted over the coating. I've never had a steel 
tank fail hydro although I've had them fail vip mostly due to rust on the 
inside caused mostly by diver error. DIN is a captured O ring between the 
tank and valve rather than yoke which is mostly what you see with alum. 
cylinders. Once you get above 300 psi I would relly prefer to see divers 
with din.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brent Hodges" <vbhodges at gmail.com>
To: "Trawlers and Trawlering" <trawlers-and-trawlering at lists.samurai.com>; 
<bill at northeastscubasupply.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: T&T: Steel SCUBA tanks

> From: "Bill Allen" <bill at northeastscubasupply.com>
> Not as big a problem when filling as overheating alum. is the kiss of 
> death for the tank.. You will need to be a little more careful any
> water getting in the tanks when filling (something you should do anyways). 
> You might even want to consider going din although there are now valves
> which will do both.  (endsnip)
>
> Hi Bill,
> I'm trying to understand this. I carry 2- alum tanks on the boat in a 
> secure rack in a stateroom hanging locker, inside out of the weather. I 
> kind of thought that the alum would be better because of the rust thing, 
> but you obviously don't consider that a problem.
>
> You said overheating a alum tank is the kiss of death. How do you overheat 
> a tank?
>
> What the heck does "going din" mean?
>
> Brent Hodges
> 43 Albin Sundeck
> Friendship
> Seabrook, Tx.