T&T: The "RIGHT" way to tie up to a dock

[Jim Ague]

> I think the two-breast-line, two-spring-line arrangement is the best
> basic setup for almost all situations involving floating docks.

On our Monk 36 we did almost the same as Marin with his GB36, except I found 
crisscrossing the spring lines "better". That is, one from an aft cleat 
forward to about midship on the dock, and another from midship aft to 
somewhere near the stern on the dock.

We found ourselves tied to pilings many times with tides in the four foot 
range. Here it is importnt that the lines are long enough to handle both 
high and low tide. Not too taught at low, not too loose at high. I found it 
much better to have the breast lines run from the outside cleats to a dock 
cleat several feet aft of the stern, or forward of the bow.

In a slip with pilings, in nastier weather, I would sometimes find myself 
with 8 lines out: a pair of crisscrossed springs on both sides, a pair of 
crisscrossed bow breasts, and likewise stern breasts. All tuned so that 
Derreen was close enough to be boarded, but held back enough to minimize 
wear and tear on fenders and rubrails.

The latter technique held up quite well when Hurricane Isabell (I think) 
flooded the Chesapeake a few years ago and caused the water level to exceed 
the top of the fixed pilings. It was quite a sight to see Derreen sitting 
there before the water receded in open water with no apparent dockage around 
with its lines disappearing into the water. Plus I proudly say, the lines 
were tuned just right such that no piling head came near the hull. Several 
other boats in the marina suffered this kind of damage.

-- Jim Ague