T&T: Wiring diagram for adding inverter to DC system (long)
Truelove39@aol.com
Truelove39@aol.com
Mon Dec 4 09:53:34 EST 2006
We have been working on a similar project, and thought that sharing what
we've learned might help answer some questions.
We're giving our Balmar 95-165A alternator a big brother to help it charge
our 1500Ah AGM house bank. We'll replace it with a Balmar 95-210, which is the
same machine with larger windings. The 165 is now driven by a 1" serp belt
(Lugger 668D); an engineer at Lugger told us that belt will drive the Balmar
98-310 as well; we considered that machine but opted for the 210 for the sake
of interchangeability as we already have another 165 on the wing engine.
We'll mount the 165 in place of the original 40A start battery alternator and
drive it off the front pulley with two 5/8" v-belts. These belts are overkill
but will eliminate any slippage if they get a little loose, say, on a long
passage. These are good machines with oversized bearings and are cheap to
maintain - we replace bearings and brushes every 2000 hours. Unless they get too
hot, they should last a long time. Currently, we limit our 165 to 90% or just
under 150A and it never exceeds 180F degrees in a 120F degree engine room
The start battery (for main and wing engines) is a single 4D and is now
charged via an Echo-charge unit. We tried a combiner, but didn't like the idea of
simply switching the 4D on and off-line with the 8D house bank. There's an
emergency parallel relay in case the start battery fails.
The fields of both machines will be supplied from a single Balmar MC612
regulator. According to Balmar, this is the only regulator capable of supplying
enough field current to drive both machines to full output. The Xantrex XAR12
will work too; it is almost identical, but is a bear to program. The engineer
at Balmar told us that the different alternators' outputs will be
proportional, that is, they should both put out their respective rated current. He said
it's important to splice (solder) the 2nd field wire no more than an inch
away from the regulator, and to change the regulator supply fuse to 15A. Even
though the available output will become 375A, we will use the regulator's "amp
manager" to limit outputs to 90% unless alternator temperature dictates a
lower number. This will give us 337A, and as our underway load is around 40-
60A we'll have at least 277A, or 18% of capacity available for recharging the
house bank. We may just buy another 210 at some point and keep the 165 as a
spare. This would give us an output rate of 300A or 21% of capacity. All these
charge rates are maximums (at 12V) and will decrease somewhat as the voltage
climbs during bulk charging.
We also learned that ammeter shunts should only be used at 66% of their
continuous rating. This is because if they get too hot their resistance is
permanently changed and the calibration will be off. We could not match the
original ammeters but since one was a 150 and we needed a 300, we will replace the
existing 150A shunt with a 300A shunt. Since they both have a 50mV output, the
meter will read 150 when the current is actually 300. We will simply put a
"X2" label on the ammeter.
Initially, we Googled for the best price on the alternator, but got
something like 40% off list from Defender, who beat our best quote by almost $100. We
had also been shopping for a good battery monitor, and recently purchased a
Link 2000 on Ebay. We have the Link 2000R on the sailboat and have been very
happy with it. Balmar has a lot of good information on alternator selection
and pulley sizing, etc. on their website. _http://www.balmar.net/_
(http://www.balmar.net/) We get our shunts from Deltec.
_http://www.deltecco.com/catalog.html_ (http://www.deltecco.com/catalog.html) We like switchboard shunts
rather than meter shunts as they have a lower profile. Jack Rabbit offers a
200-0-200 or 300-0-300 ammeter with shunt _http://tinyurl.com/y7r9eu_
(http://tinyurl.com/y7r9eu)
No connection with any of the above companies.
Regards,
John
"Seahorse"
lying Jacksonville FL
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