From aem28 at verizon.net Mon Nov 2 13:29:51 2009 From: aem28 at verizon.net (Al McKenney) Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 13:29:51 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] 32 ft Teardrop Skeg Anode References: <6AB184C6E2464DDBBDDF289F16DA623D@alsdesktop><8CC26531A8D9FEF-565C-A0B6@webmail-d022.sysops.aol.com><57AF55842C29493AA0F5D2D18B3DBE69@alsdesktop> <8CC26ED624216A8-4EA8-2287@webmail-m014.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Thanks Richard Maresca, I have installed a 5 in double-sided rudder zinc as you have done, and think it will work just fine. Al McKenney Nordic Star 32-178 Williamsburg VA aem28 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stephen.hill at cogeco.ca Mon Nov 2 14:29:19 2009 From: stephen.hill at cogeco.ca (Stephen Hill) Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 14:29:19 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] The Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter Message-ID: <8F5738699936448181604E85266F8753@D3WH39C1> Thank you for the Fall 2009 Issue of the above newsletter. As a relatively new owner of a NT, I find I am always hungry for knowledge about the boats, equipment, issues & fixes and owners' upgrades they've made. So, receiving this newsletter and subscribing to the SENTOA email list is of great benefit. I live in Ontario, Canada and boat on the Great Lakes. There is a small, but growing fleet here, which is wonderful. However, from time to time, I find myself wanting to contact one or more of these folks, but the Nordic Tug Fleet owners' info in the newsletter does not contain enough information for this purpose. I would therefore like to propose that we create the option for people on this list to provide their email address, for publication in future issues of The Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter, on the understanding that the information is provided simply for owners to contact each other and it is not to be used for any other purposes. I'd appreciate hearing from others whether you would like this option offered. Thanks very much Stephen Hill stephen.hill at cogeco.ca NT37-199 Tug'n Penetanguishene, Ontario, Canada -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ceb at oz.net Mon Nov 2 14:58:47 2009 From: ceb at oz.net (Charles E. Billings) Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 11:58:47 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] The Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter References: <8F5738699936448181604E85266F8753@D3WH39C1> Message-ID: <7714ED7657794E9DA25E507152E7D327@VALUEDB8142DE8> Greetings all, A good idea, but unfortunately, not all subscribers to the printed Newsletter & Fleet List are on line. There are several subscribers who specifically requested their names, boat names, hailing ports, etc., not be listed in the Fleet List. Our yacht club has a "members only page" (password protected) that contains info on our members who choose to list contact info. Perhaps the SENTOA web guru could create such a page? I don't know what the process would entail, but such a page would be a source that could be updated by the individual members when contact info changes. If you want to reply to a contributor to this Listserv off the list, you can always right click on the received E-mail, scroll down and click on "Properties", and you'll see a window with the name of the sender as well as his/her e-mail address. Getting updated mailing addresses and E-mail addresses is a source of constant frustration for me. The USPS now requires the statement "Change Service Requested" be noted on the newsletter address page when sending the newsletter out "bulk rate" (a savings of about 60% over First Class). When there has been an address change or a failure to deliver the newsletter to the recipient, I get a card back listing the change, or "temporarily away", or "undeliverable as addressed", etc. Each card costs 50 cents (paid for out of the donations for the newsletter). For the Spring '09 issue, I received 51 cards ($25.50), only 15 of which gave me "new" addresses. The others were "temp away" or "undeliverable as addressed". I apologize that the US newsletters haven't been mailed yet, just the 76 copies mailed out of country. The printer will make the first fold, but I have to make the second fold by hand, then tape the edges, before taking the pile (800 +/- newsletters) to the bulk mail sort place.....we're still folding and taping. The US newsletters should be in the mail by the end of this week. If you don't receive one in the next couple of weeks, let me know, off this list. Happy tuggin', Charlie Billings Editor - Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter & Fleet List Owner - NOBSKA, 32-057 (1991) Bremerton YC, WA ----- Original Message ----- From: Stephen Hill To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA) Sent: Monday, November 02, 2009 11:29 AM Subject: [Sentoa] The Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter Thank you for the Fall 2009 Issue of the above newsletter. As a relatively new owner of a NT, I find I am always hungry for knowledge about the boats, equipment, issues & fixes and owners' upgrades they've made. So, receiving this newsletter and subscribing to the SENTOA email list is of great benefit. I live in Ontario, Canada and boat on the Great Lakes. There is a small, but growing fleet here, which is wonderful. However, from time to time, I find myself wanting to contact one or more of these folks, but the Nordic Tug Fleet owners' info in the newsletter does not contain enough information for this purpose. I would therefore like to propose that we create the option for people on this list to provide their email address, for publication in future issues of The Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter, on the understanding that the information is provided simply for owners to contact each other and it is not to be used for any other purposes. I'd appreciate hearing from others whether you would like this option offered. Thanks very much Stephen Hill stephen.hill at cogeco.ca NT37-199 Tug'n Penetanguishene, Ontario, Canada ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tugaloo at bellsouth.net Fri Nov 6 07:56:43 2009 From: tugaloo at bellsouth.net (Bob Wiggins) Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 07:56:43 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] fuel manafold References: <220AD434-74B3-4E57-8F60-4E6D59E88D4B@comcast.net><86FB03B278254E78A37DFFBA6154E86F@alsdesktop> <4AE85507.1020908@wisc.edu> Message-ID: <000601ca5ee0$976f9d00$6402a8c0@bob214ebd321ee> I need to make a fuel manafold to attach to the side of the tank, connecting the bottom feed to the top return so I can connect the engine and genset fuel and return lines to it and reduce the chance of the main engine drawing fuel from the genset line. I now have the lines coming through a tee at the bottom tank fitting for the fuel, and the top for the return lines. The technichian at the genset company thinks the engine may be drawing fuel from the genset, causing air to enter the genset return line. I am considering two options: Building a manafold out of 3/4 inch brass tees, nipples and a union. That will be pretty expensive. The other option is having a manafold made of thick walled aluminun tubing by welding a plate on each end and drilling holes and tapping the pipe threads on the side for the fittings or welding fittings over the holes. This may be less expensive and will probably look better. I will connect it to the tank with brass fittings, including a cut off valve and unions. I have looked on the web and have not found anything that may work. Has anyone done either of these options, or any other solution? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Bob Wiggins TUGALOO 26149 Clemson, SC From jehpe at comcast.net Fri Nov 6 08:19:45 2009 From: jehpe at comcast.net (Jeff Hassell) Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 08:19:45 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] New Nordic Tugs Web Site Message-ID: When I looked at the Nordic Tugs web site this morning it appears to be completely reworked. And I also noticed an announcement that Bob Shamek had been promoted. Congratulations, Bob! You might want to look at nordictugs.com Jeff Hassell Toto 32-285 Naples, FL From sbergen at cybered.ca Fri Nov 6 12:01:53 2009 From: sbergen at cybered.ca (Simon Bergen-Henengouwen) Date: Fri, 06 Nov 2009 09:01:53 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] fuel manifold In-Reply-To: <000601ca5ee0$976f9d00$6402a8c0@bob214ebd321ee> References: <220AD434-74B3-4E57-8F60-4E6D59E88D4B@comcast.net> <86FB03B278254E78A37DFFBA6154E86F@alsdesktop> <4AE85507.1020908@wisc.edu> <000601ca5ee0$976f9d00$6402a8c0@bob214ebd321ee> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20091106084645.02323370@cybered.ca> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From morris at novuscom.net Fri Nov 6 12:28:20 2009 From: morris at novuscom.net (Jeff Morris) Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 12:28:20 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Nordic Tug 37 - Best Buy for a used boat Message-ID: <000c01ca5f06$89fe7e40$9dfb7ac0$@net> A pal just sent me this link: http://www.soundingsonline.com/news/dispatches/292-nov-5/244112-best-bets-fo r-used-boats they rate a NT37 as a best buy for used boats. Cool. Jeff Morris NT37-144 Adventure-Us Vancouver Canada -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ramatuska at gmail.com Fri Nov 6 18:15:49 2009 From: ramatuska at gmail.com (Ron Matuska) Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 17:15:49 -0600 Subject: [Sentoa] fuel manifold In-Reply-To: <000601ca5ee0$976f9d00$6402a8c0@bob214ebd321ee> References: <220AD434-74B3-4E57-8F60-4E6D59E88D4B@comcast.net><86FB03B278254E78A37DFFBA6154E86F@alsdesktop> <4AE85507.1020908@wisc.edu> <000601ca5ee0$976f9d00$6402a8c0@bob214ebd321ee> Message-ID: <001401ca5f37$148e23a0$3daa6ae0$@com> We also have a 26' with a generator. The generator was already installed when we purchased the tug. Fuel supply to both the Engine and the Generator is from the a Tee on top of the 100 gal tank. Fuel returns also tee into another fitting on the top of the tank. In 8 years we have had no fuel starvation problems to either the Engine or the Generator. Our fuel tank does have a drain plug at the bottom center of the tank. In the future I plan to install a fuel polishing system using the drain plug hose as the supply line to the polishing unit. I would not recommend you using the bottom fitting for either the generator or the Engine. The bottom is where all your diesel crud will accumulate. I can send pictures if you like. Ron Matuska Morton, IL Two Far Out NTK26-160 From ceb at oz.net Fri Nov 6 18:31:48 2009 From: ceb at oz.net (Charles E. Billings) Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 15:31:48 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter & Fleet List References: <000c01ca5f06$89fe7e40$9dfb7ac0$@net> Message-ID: For those who were disappointed that the Canadian, Caribbean, and European tuggers received their Newsletter before USA tuggers received theirs, good things come to those who wait. The Fall 2009 issue of the Newsletter and Fleet List was taken to the bulk mail facility this past Wednesday, so you should see your N/L in your mailboxes shortly. Several tuggers in our local area received their copy in the mail today. Unfortunately, there were many Spring '09 Newsletter issues that were "undeliverable as addressed" according to the US Postal Service (USPS), so those addresses were deleted from my mailing list.....no point in again getting billed fifty cents each to find the addresses are still wrong. Therefore, if you don't receive a newsletter in the next week or two, and feel you should have received one, please let me know off this list at ceb at oz.net. I'll get a copy off to you ASAP (First Class mail) when you send me your correct mailing address. The USPS is pretty persnickety when it comes to exact mailing addresses. It's usually not a problem with First Class mail, as a human being will check a discrepancy. However, "bulk mail" is different.....if the address in the USPS computer system is 1234 Main Street SE, and the address on the N/L label is 1234 SE Main Street, it will end up in the circular file and the USPS will send me a card saying "Undeliverable as Addressed" and charge fifty cents to let me know. A good way to confirm your address as it's recorded in the USPS computer is to check your electric, gas, or phone bills to see how it's printed there. It's interesting to note that of the 30+ cards I received from the USPS with "undeliverable as addressed", only two were subscribers for which I had an E-mail address or phone number and could contact the tugger directly to get a correct address. As a point of interest, by sending the newsletter by "bulk mail", there is a savings of $ .44 (forty-four cents) for each copy mailed, compared to First Class mail. With over 840 subscribers, that adds up to quite a savings. That's especially important when less than 10% of the subscribers contribute to the financial well being of the Newsletter. Last year, it was 6.8%, this year it's just under 10%. Thanks to all of you who support the Newsletter and Fleet List with your donations. Hope you enjoy the Fall 2009 issue. Charlie Billings Editor - Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter Owner - NOBSKA, 32-057 (1991) Bremerton YC, WA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From JJAHAYES at aol.com Fri Nov 6 19:44:13 2009 From: JJAHAYES at aol.com (JJAHAYES at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:44:13 EST Subject: [Sentoa] fuel manifold Message-ID: Ron, Do you do most of your cruising on the Illinois River or do you trailer to other locations. I was born in Peoria and remember the rolling farm land and spring floods after the winter ice on the river. John Hayes WEAK MOMENT 37-29 In a message dated 11/6/2009 4:16:37 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, ramatuska at gmail.com writes: We also have a 26' with a generator. The generator was already installed when we purchased the tug. Fuel supply to both the Engine and the Generator is from the a Tee on top of the 100 gal tank. Fuel returns also tee into another fitting on the top of the tank. In 8 years we have had no fuel starvation problems to either the Engine or the Generator. Our fuel tank does have a drain plug at the bottom center of the tank. In the future I plan to install a fuel polishing system using the drain plug hose as the supply line to the polishing unit. I would not recommend you using the bottom fitting for either the generator or the Engine. The bottom is where all your diesel crud will accumulate. I can send pictures if you like. Ron Matuska Morton, IL Two Far Out NTK26-160 _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jkhildre at pobox.alaska.net Fri Nov 6 22:19:56 2009 From: jkhildre at pobox.alaska.net (Joe Hildreth) Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 18:19:56 -0900 Subject: [Sentoa] Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter & Fleet List References: <000c01ca5f06$89fe7e40$9dfb7ac0$@net> Message-ID: The US mail is so slow I understand the last rate increase was for "storage". ----- Original Message ----- From: Charles E. Billings To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA) Sent: Friday, November 06, 2009 2:31 PM Subject: [Sentoa] Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter & Fleet List For those who were disappointed that the Canadian, Caribbean, and European tuggers received their Newsletter before USA tuggers received theirs, good things come to those who wait. The Fall 2009 issue of the Newsletter and Fleet List was taken to the bulk mail facility this past Wednesday, so you should see your N/L in your mailboxes shortly. Several tuggers in our local area received their copy in the mail today. Unfortunately, there were many Spring '09 Newsletter issues that were "undeliverable as addressed" according to the US Postal Service (USPS), so those addresses were deleted from my mailing list.....no point in again getting billed fifty cents each to find the addresses are still wrong. Therefore, if you don't receive a newsletter in the next week or two, and feel you should have received one, please let me know off this list at ceb at oz.net. I'll get a copy off to you ASAP (First Class mail) when you send me your correct mailing address. The USPS is pretty persnickety when it comes to exact mailing addresses. It's usually not a problem with First Class mail, as a human being will check a discrepancy. However, "bulk mail" is different.....if the address in the USPS computer system is 1234 Main Street SE, and the address on the N/L label is 1234 SE Main Street, it will end up in the circular file and the USPS will send me a card saying "Undeliverable as Addressed" and charge fifty cents to let me know. A good way to confirm your address as it's recorded in the USPS computer is to check your electric, gas, or phone bills to see how it's printed there. It's interesting to note that of the 30+ cards I received from the USPS with "undeliverable as addressed", only two were subscribers for which I had an E-mail address or phone number and could contact the tugger directly to get a correct address. As a point of interest, by sending the newsletter by "bulk mail", there is a savings of $ .44 (forty-four cents) for each copy mailed, compared to First Class mail. With over 840 subscribers, that adds up to quite a savings. That's especially important when less than 10% of the subscribers contribute to the financial well being of the Newsletter. Last year, it was 6.8%, this year it's just under 10%. Thanks to all of you who support the Newsletter and Fleet List with your donations. Hope you enjoy the Fall 2009 issue. Charlie Billings Editor - Nordic Tug Owners Newsletter Owner - NOBSKA, 32-057 (1991) Bremerton YC, WA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.424 / Virus Database: 270.14.52/2483 - Release Date: 11/05/09 19:52:00 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From LBARBER at sc.rr.com Thu Nov 12 16:51:58 2009 From: LBARBER at sc.rr.com (Lee Barber) Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:51:58 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] anchor windlass Message-ID: <250E4F3156BB4BFF9C750FEABDE60BB4@adminc16856379> After much use, my Sprint 1000 anchor windlass motor needs new brushes and bearings. I have been told by Lewmar that they do not have a parts list for the motor but will of course sell me a new one. This seems crazy as nearly all electric motors can be rebuilt. Does anyone have any idea how one can get the part numbers? Lee Barber Aerie NT 37-013 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tugs4me at comcast.net Thu Nov 12 18:02:24 2009 From: tugs4me at comcast.net (tugs4me at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 23:02:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Sentoa] anchor windlass In-Reply-To: <250E4F3156BB4BFF9C750FEABDE60BB4@adminc16856379> Message-ID: <99903736.2117111258066944434.JavaMail.root@sz0106a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Lee, Lewmar probably purchases that item from a manufacturer - doubt that they build it in a "Lewmar" facility. I'll bet a little detective work can establish the original source. Jim Moore RILEY 37085 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Barber" To: "Sentoa" Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 1:51:58 PM (GMT-0800) Auto-Detected Subject: [Sentoa] anchor windlass After much use, my Sprint 1000 anchor windlass motor needs new brushes and bearings. I have been told by Lewmar that they do not have a parts list for the motor but will of course sell me a new one. This seems crazy as nearly all electric motors can be rebuilt. Does anyone have any idea how one can get the part numbers? Lee Barber Aerie NT 37-013 _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Seasalt007 at aol.com Thu Nov 12 18:26:43 2009 From: Seasalt007 at aol.com (Seasalt007 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:26:43 EST Subject: [Sentoa] anchor windlass Message-ID: I had another brand windlass motor rebuilt years ago. I took it to a normal auto electric shop and they pressed in new bearings and changed the brushes for a very reasonable price. Most electric motors are not that exotic. Ron Carter Sedona 42-19 Punta Gorda In a message dated 11/12/2009 6:02:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tugs4me at comcast.net writes: Lee, Lewmar probably purchases that item from a manufacturer - doubt that they build it in a "Lewmar" facility. I'll bet a little detective work can establish the original source. Jim Moore RILEY 37085 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Barber" To: "Sentoa" Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 1:51:58 PM (GMT-0800) Auto-Detected Subject: [Sentoa] anchor windlass After much use, my Sprint 1000 anchor windlass motor needs new brushes and bearings. I have been told by Lewmar that they do not have a parts list for the motor but will of course sell me a new one. This seems crazy as nearly all electric motors can be rebuilt. Does anyone have any idea how one can get the part numbers? Lee Barber Aerie NT 37-013 _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From leslieanddoug at gmail.com Thu Nov 12 18:39:25 2009 From: leslieanddoug at gmail.com (Leslie and Doug) Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:39:25 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] anchor windlass In-Reply-To: <99903736.2117111258066944434.JavaMail.root@sz0106a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <99903736.2117111258066944434.JavaMail.root@sz0106a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4AFC9CAD.1070400@gmail.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From railroad at sover.net Fri Nov 13 04:36:54 2009 From: railroad at sover.net (J. M. Hebda) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 04:36:54 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] GPS interferance Message-ID: <200911130438865.SM00300@vrsbdserv5.sover.net> Folks, We seem to be getting interference on our mounted VHS radio (Icom), caused by a nearby mounted GPS (Garmin). When GPS is on, high squelch levels on a few frequencies, and scan stalls there. Not sure if moving the coax or antenna lines will solve it. Also, Does anybody know if GPS antennas can be mounted close together? or will they interfere with each other? We have one on the roof for the Garmin, and a new one for the laptop, we want to mount next to it. Any ideas? Jerry Hebda, NT32-031 Water Horse, Grand Isle VT -- JMH 2009-11-13 0440e SX From mark.laffin at gmail.com Fri Nov 13 11:40:14 2009 From: mark.laffin at gmail.com (Mark Laffin) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 11:40:14 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] GPS interferance In-Reply-To: <200911130438865.SM00300@vrsbdserv5.sover.net> References: <200911130438865.SM00300@vrsbdserv5.sover.net> Message-ID: <7669cb4c0911130840m7851de6cndf46db7cf58d3a09@mail.gmail.com> Gps antennas are 'receive only' and don't radiate RF, so they should not interfere with each other. I have three GPS antennas and one Sirius antenna mounted within 8-12 inched of each other. Chartplotters and VHF radios, depending on their design, can radiate RF that can cause interference. Try moving the devices, rerouting/separating cables, and/or moving antennas until the interference is minimized. Make sure you are using high-quality coax for the VHF and that you have followed the grounding advice of each manufacturer. Mark Laffin MV Respite 32-135 Rochester NY On 11/13/09, J. M. Hebda wrote: > Folks, > We seem to be getting interference on our mounted VHS radio (Icom), caused > by a nearby mounted GPS (Garmin). When GPS is on, high squelch levels on > a few frequencies, and scan stalls there. Not sure if moving the coax > or antenna > lines will solve it. Also, Does anybody know if GPS antennas can > be mounted close together? or will they interfere with each other? > We have one on the roof for the Garmin, and a new one for the laptop, we > want > to mount next to it. Any ideas? > Jerry Hebda, NT32-031 > Water Horse, Grand Isle VT > -- > JMH 2009-11-13 0440e SX > > _______________________________________________ > Sentoa mailing list > Sentoa at lists.samurai.com > http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa > -- Sent from my mobile device From stephen.hill at cogeco.ca Sun Nov 15 16:32:28 2009 From: stephen.hill at cogeco.ca (Stephen Hill) Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 16:32:28 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Waher/Dryer References: <52540.85193.qm@web53410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Jean I had another question for you (as NT seems a little too busy to answer my questions right now). Where is your unit vented? Also, where is the through hull for the water discharge located? Thanks very much Stephen ----- Original Message ----- From: jean chapman To: sentoa at lists.samurai.com Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 1:18 PM Subject: [Sentoa] Waher/Dryer The dealer removed our port-side cabinet in the salon for our washer/dryer. Nordic Tug took our old cabinet and sent us a new one to hold the Splendide washer/dryer. It works well, but is very small. We use the dryer most of the time...wet towels from when we take a shower. It is vented to the outside. Nordic sent all the electrical lines and other connections that was needed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jag at vcn.bc.ca Mon Nov 16 01:52:18 2009 From: jag at vcn.bc.ca (jag at vcn.bc.ca) Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:52:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Sentoa] Nordic Tug 32' Database of Equipment and Options Message-ID: <1051.207.102.64.72.1258354338.squirrel@mail.vcn.bc.ca> Nordic Tug 32' Database of Equipment and Options Dear Tuggers The latest edition of NT32_Specs.XLS is now available on the www.sentoa.org homepage. The list is slowly growing and your participation in compiling this database of the Equipment and Options on your 32' tug by replying to this message and filling in under the Item letter the equipment / options on your tug would be appreciated. Please reply to me directly at jag at vcn.bc.ca Nordic Tugs for the most part are semi-custom built, even those of the same vintage are not the same. A database would be useful in our discussions on the Sentoa list and would help members to ascertain if others' tugs are equipped similarly, when design changes were made etc. It would also be useful for those looking for a tug or upgrade. I have volunteered to compile the information for 32s and perhaps others will do the same for the 26, 37 & 42s. Webmaster Herb Nickles will then make the data available on the Sentoa website www.sentoa.org/index.html - near the bottom of the page. Please insert your information below the appropriate line letter(s). A - Model Year B - Hull # C - Engine Mfg & HP D - Transmission / Model E - Batteries: House; Start; Gen; BT i.e 2Pr GC; 1 Grp 27; 1 Grp 24; 1 AGM F - Alternator - Manuf Amps G - Charger / Inverter H - Exhaust Center/Stbd ; Elbow/Riser Note: Layout "A" - sink stove behind helm seat usually have exhaust down the center near the prop and had an Elbow rather than a Riser. I - Muffler None / Fwd / Setee / Aft J - Block Htr K - Waste Treatment & location / Gals L - Generator size / Mfg / Location: ER Port/Stbd/Laz M - Bonding System (Y/N) N - Thruster HP & MFG / Bow / Stern O - Furnace / Model P - Windlass MFG Q - Stack :Traditional or Angled R - Pilot House Visor/Eyebrows S - Radar Mast T - Lifting Mast U - Doors: Teak; DSG ? Color V - Salon Side Windows 2 or 3; Rubber/Alum W - "Berth - V; Stbd ; Island" X - Saloon Layout A/B. A= galley behind helm seat Y - Stairs Salon to PH: Port, Center, 2/3rds Z - Stove Type AA - Refer/Frzr AB - # of Water Tanks gals. AC - Tank Gauges AD - A/C Mfg. AE - Cleats Bronze/Stainless AF - Thruhulls Bronze/Marelon AH - Fuel Capacity AH - Lazarette Hatch/ Manf AI - Keel Ballast AJ - Transom Door AK - Swim grid: Teak / FG / Integrated AL - Flybridge AM - Watermaker AN - Fuel Filters AO - Propeller - Diameter / Pitch - spare? Suggestions for additions / deletions appreciated. John Gallagher RADIANT 32-068 Vancouver, B.C From jeannieii2000 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 17 09:48:32 2009 From: jeannieii2000 at yahoo.com (jean chapman) Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 06:48:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Sentoa] Sentoa Digest, Vol 77, Issue 5 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <108515.73559.qm@web53409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The washer/dryer is vented in the back on the port side-just above the step leading forward. ? We do not know where the drainage is at-we bought the tug at Massey Yacht Sales in Bradenton.? They did the work and were talking with Nordic Tugs while doing it.? You may want to talk with them. ? BlueEyes NT163 --- On Mon, 11/16/09, sentoa-request at lists.samurai.com wrote: From: sentoa-request at lists.samurai.com Subject: Sentoa Digest, Vol 77, Issue 5 To: sentoa at lists.samurai.com Date: Monday, November 16, 2009, 12:00 AM Send Sentoa mailing list submissions to ??? sentoa at lists.samurai.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? sentoa-request at lists.samurai.com You can reach the person managing the list at ??? sentoa-owner at lists.samurai.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Sentoa digest..." Today's Topics: ???1. Re: Waher/Dryer (Stephen Hill) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 16:32:28 -0500 From: "Stephen Hill" To: "South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association \(SENTOA\)" ??? Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Waher/Dryer Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi Jean I had another question for you (as NT seems a little too busy to answer my questions right now). Where is your unit vented? Also, where is the through hull for the water discharge located? Thanks very much Stephen ? ----- Original Message ----- ? From: jean chapman ? To: sentoa at lists.samurai.com ? Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 1:18 PM ? Subject: [Sentoa] Waher/Dryer ? ? ? ? The dealer removed our port-side cabinet in the salon for our washer/dryer.? Nordic Tug took our old cabinet and sent us a new one to hold the Splendide washer/dryer.? It works well, but is very small.? We use the dryer most of the time...wet towels from when we take a shower.? It is vented to the outside.? Nordic sent all the electrical lines and other connections that was needed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ? _______________________________________________ ? Sentoa mailing list ? Sentoa at lists.samurai.com ? http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa End of Sentoa Digest, Vol 77, Issue 5 ************************************* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stephen.hill at cogeco.ca Thu Nov 19 11:17:41 2009 From: stephen.hill at cogeco.ca (Stephen Hill) Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:17:41 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Rocna 20 Anchor on NT37 References: <8F5738699936448181604E85266F8753@D3WH39C1> Message-ID: <99EA0E80598749F0B77BAD31F21548C3@D3WH39C1> I am considering the purchase of a Rocna 20 (roll bar style) anchor for my NT37, which has a bow pulpit. Have any other NT37 owners installed one? Does it fit the optional bow pulpit of the 37? Thanks Stephen Hill Tug'n NT37-199 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sarayu at genez.us Thu Nov 19 11:27:42 2009 From: sarayu at genez.us (Bryan Genez) Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:27:42 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Rocna 20 Anchor on NT37 In-Reply-To: <99EA0E80598749F0B77BAD31F21548C3@D3WH39C1> Message-ID: Stephen Hill wrote: > I am considering the purchase of a Rocna 20 (roll bar style) anchor for my > NT37, which has a bow pulpit. Have any other NT37 owners installed one? Does > it fit the optional bow pulpit of the 37? I installed a Rocna 15 on my NT32 this past Spring. Fits fine and the roller needed no adjustment from the Claw that was replaced. I?m sure a 20 would also have fit my roller, so I?d expect it to fit a 37 as well. At the same time, I installed a Windline chain stopper between windlass and anchor roller. Even though I routinely use a snubber, should it slip, I never want the windlass to take the loads of my boat surging against a fully set anchor in stormy conditions. The stopper also holds the anchor in place while we?re underway. An important addition, IMO. -- Best regards, Bryan and Linda Genez Sarayu NT-32 #265 New Bern, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joel at truher.org Thu Nov 19 11:32:02 2009 From: joel at truher.org (Joel Truher) Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 08:32:02 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Rocna 20 Anchor on NT37 In-Reply-To: <99EA0E80598749F0B77BAD31F21548C3@D3WH39C1> References: <8F5738699936448181604E85266F8753@D3WH39C1> <99EA0E80598749F0B77BAD31F21548C3@D3WH39C1> Message-ID: I have a rocna 25 on my nt37, and i like it a lot. It fits perfectly, with just a few inches between the shank and the wildcat. I don't have the optional pulpit, but i think the same roller is used there. joel beach house nt37-176 On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 8:17 AM, Stephen Hill wrote: > I am considering the purchase of a Rocna 20 (roll bar style) anchor for my > NT37, which has a bow pulpit. Have any other NT37 owners installed one? Does > it fit the optional bow pulpit of the 37? > Thanks > Stephen Hill > Tug'n > NT37-199 > _______________________________________________ > Sentoa mailing list > Sentoa at lists.samurai.com > http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa > > From perlick at comcast.net Fri Nov 20 07:10:27 2009 From: perlick at comcast.net (Mark & Susan Perlick) Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 07:10:27 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Rocna Anchor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001201ca69da$7330b780$59922680$@net> We switched to a Rocna from a Bruce on our 37 two years ago, but we went with the Rocna 25 using 125 feet of 5/16 HT chain. It fits great on our 2001 37 with the extended anchor platform which I think was optional in 2001, but is now standard. Our Bruce was a 20 which I felt was a little light (we used a Bruce 20 on our Island Packet 37 for years and were very satisfied). We do a lot of anchoring in the Great Lakes and have been very happy with this selection. One thing we have noticed is that the Rocna really digs in and the windlass works pretty hard to break it out, but that is more reassuring than a problem. I like to sleep at night. Mark Perlick Steadfast NT37-050 From jlonerga at san.rr.com Fri Nov 20 15:23:21 2009 From: jlonerga at san.rr.com (Jim Lonergan) Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:23:21 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Steering bottomline Message-ID: <21FBFD474E1945D091953FB0EACDB279@jims> My mini investigation into hydraulic steering failures on Nordic Tugs revealed only three events. One occurred when a rudder banked into something and over pressured the system and a second occurred on a sea trial where the system is intentionally over pressured. In my case the connection that parted was improperly put together by the commissioning yard that installed the fly bridge and they apparently didn't follow NT's procedures (they cranked down too hard on the nut). So with some 700 times 20+ connections out there Nordic Tug has a very good record. Bob Shamek explained the thorough process they went through with Teleflex and Parker and it's no wonder they don't fail. Bottomline- I'm not going to mess with a good thing. Incidentally the repair cost less than $20 including fluid and took 10 minutes plus 2 hours to clean up my mess. Also NT has thoughtfully included isolation valves between the both the fly bridge and autopilot and the main system which, had I known of, would have saved the scary ride back to the slip with minimal steering. Jim Lonergan CASA DEL PERRO III, 42-98 San Diego, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deanraf at sbcglobal.net Sat Nov 21 12:29:14 2009 From: deanraf at sbcglobal.net (Dean Raffaelli) Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:29:14 -0600 Subject: [Sentoa] Florida Keys Message-ID: In an attempt to individually meet with all Nordic Tug enthusiast, I am wondering if any one will be in and around Fort Lauderdale or the Keys between X-Mass and New Years. Charlotte and I are on a mission to find some warmth after an especially cold-cool-rainy winter-spring-Summer. Remember you are all welcome visit us in Chi-Town. Don't let the snow and ice deter you! Dean Raffaelli Carrie Rose 32044 Chi-Town, IL From edk1 at comcast.net Sat Nov 21 13:06:25 2009 From: edk1 at comcast.net (Elliot Kocen) Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:06:25 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment Message-ID: <000801ca6ad5$571da7a0$0558f6e0$@net> I have discovered that our 50 gallon fresh water tank had developed some kind of thin membrane growth which breaks up and floats out of the deck filling when we refill the tank. It is clogging our fresh water pump filter with a thin brownish film. Whatever it is, I would like to clear it up and thought about adding Clorox to the tank and letting it sit for a day or two before flushing. Has anyone experienced a similar problem and how was it treated? Thanks in advance for any advise. Elliot Kocen, Canvasback, NT 26-150, Solomons, MD. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stephen.hill at cogeco.ca Sat Nov 21 13:20:42 2009 From: stephen.hill at cogeco.ca (Stephen Hill) Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:20:42 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment References: <000801ca6ad5$571da7a0$0558f6e0$@net> Message-ID: <4685BFC9DECF46F6A8640C34F37F63AE@D3WH39C1> Hi Elliot I understand this problem is caused by chlorine in the "city water" reacting with the inside of the tank. The resulting white gunk can also clog up the filter on your Jabsco pump. I've purchased a "Dockside Prefilter" from General Ecology that I'm told will eliminate the chlorine from the city water when filling my water tank and the problem will go away. We're hauled out for the winter on the Great Lakes, so I won't know how it works until next season Stephen Hill Tug'n NT37-199 ----- Original Message ----- From: Elliot Kocen To: 'South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA)' Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:06 PM Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment I have discovered that our 50 gallon fresh water tank had developed some kind of thin membrane growth which breaks up and floats out of the deck filling when we refill the tank. It is clogging our fresh water pump filter with a thin brownish film. Whatever it is, I would like to clear it up and thought about adding Clorox to the tank and letting it sit for a day or two before flushing. Has anyone experienced a similar problem and how was it treated? Thanks in advance for any advise. Elliot Kocen, Canvasback, NT 26-150, Solomons, MD. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cleavitt at whidbey.com Sat Nov 21 13:54:01 2009 From: cleavitt at whidbey.com (Chuck Leavitt) Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 10:54:01 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment In-Reply-To: <4685BFC9DECF46F6A8640C34F37F63AE@D3WH39C1> References: <000801ca6ad5$571da7a0$0558f6e0$@net> <4685BFC9DECF46F6A8640C34F37F63AE@D3WH39C1> Message-ID: <4B083749.9000601@whidbey.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From edk1 at comcast.net Sat Nov 21 15:37:31 2009 From: edk1 at comcast.net (Elliot Kocen) Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:37:31 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment In-Reply-To: <4B083749.9000601@whidbey.com> References: <000801ca6ad5$571da7a0$0558f6e0$@net> <4685BFC9DECF46F6A8640C34F37F63AE@D3WH39C1> <4B083749.9000601@whidbey.com> Message-ID: <001d01ca6aea$7300e350$5902a9f0$@net> Chuck, The tank is plastic, one 50 gal. mid ship under the forward starboard side salon seat. Stephen Hill suggested that chlorine is the cause of the problem and need a pre-filter. Interestingly enough, this summer we started using more "city water" available at several of the marinas around the Bay. Normally we use well water. Maybe we need to stick to the well water. Still don't know how to get rid of the gunk other than continuous flushing. Elliot Kocen, Canvasback, NT 26-150, Solomons, Md From: sentoa-bounces at lists.samurai.com [mailto:sentoa-bounces at lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Leavitt Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:54 PM To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA) Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment Suggest that thre material of the wter tnk may have a bearing on the problem. Is your tank Stainless or plastic? Seahorse has two 50 gallon plastic tanks in the forepeak. Have a great Turkey Day Chuck Leavitt NT 26-112 Stephen Hill wrote: Hi Elliot I understand this problem is caused by chlorine in the "city water" reacting with the inside of the tank. The resulting white gunk can also clog up the filter on your Jabsco pump. I've purchased a "Dockside Prefilter" from General Ecology that I'm told will eliminate the chlorine from the city water when filling my water tank and the problem will go away. We're hauled out for the winter on the Great Lakes, so I won't know how it works until next season Stephen Hill Tug'n NT37-199 ----- Original Message ----- From: Elliot Kocen To: 'South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA)' Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:06 PM Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment I have discovered that our 50 gallon fresh water tank had developed some kind of thin membrane growth which breaks up and floats out of the deck filling when we refill the tank. It is clogging our fresh water pump filter with a thin brownish film. Whatever it is, I would like to clear it up and thought about adding Clorox to the tank and letting it sit for a day or two before flushing. Has anyone experienced a similar problem and how was it treated? Thanks in advance for any advise. Elliot Kocen, Canvasback, NT 26-150, Solomons, MD. _____ _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa _____ _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stephen.hill at cogeco.ca Sat Nov 21 16:45:32 2009 From: stephen.hill at cogeco.ca (Stephen Hill) Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:45:32 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment References: <000801ca6ad5$571da7a0$0558f6e0$@net> <4685BFC9DECF46F6A8640C34F37F63AE@D3WH39C1><4B083749.9000601@whidbey.com> <001d01ca6aea$7300e350$5902a9f0$@net> Message-ID: <0F562776CD34407B9110282DCB013950@D3WH39C1> Just for clarity of my earlier email, my tanks are not plastic. They are aluminum. When they have chlorinated water in them, over time, the reaction produces aluminum oxide. Thanks Stephen Hill Tug'n NT37-199 ----- Original Message ----- From: Elliot Kocen To: 'South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA)' Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 3:37 PM Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment Chuck, The tank is plastic, one 50 gal. mid ship under the forward starboard side salon seat. Stephen Hill suggested that chlorine is the cause of the problem and need a pre-filter. Interestingly enough, this summer we started using more "city water" available at several of the marinas around the Bay. Normally we use well water. Maybe we need to stick to the well water. Still don't know how to get rid of the gunk other than continuous flushing. Elliot Kocen, Canvasback, NT 26-150, Solomons, Md From: sentoa-bounces at lists.samurai.com [mailto:sentoa-bounces at lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Leavitt Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:54 PM To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA) Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment Suggest that thre material of the wter tnk may have a bearing on the problem. Is your tank Stainless or plastic? Seahorse has two 50 gallon plastic tanks in the forepeak. Have a great Turkey Day Chuck Leavitt NT 26-112 Stephen Hill wrote: Hi Elliot I understand this problem is caused by chlorine in the "city water" reacting with the inside of the tank. The resulting white gunk can also clog up the filter on your Jabsco pump. I've purchased a "Dockside Prefilter" from General Ecology that I'm told will eliminate the chlorine from the city water when filling my water tank and the problem will go away. We're hauled out for the winter on the Great Lakes, so I won't know how it works until next season Stephen Hill Tug'n NT37-199 ----- Original Message ----- From: Elliot Kocen To: 'South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA)' Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:06 PM Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment I have discovered that our 50 gallon fresh water tank had developed some kind of thin membrane growth which breaks up and floats out of the deck filling when we refill the tank. It is clogging our fresh water pump filter with a thin brownish film. Whatever it is, I would like to clear it up and thought about adding Clorox to the tank and letting it sit for a day or two before flushing. Has anyone experienced a similar problem and how was it treated? Thanks in advance for any advise. Elliot Kocen, Canvasback, NT 26-150, Solomons, MD. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________Sentoa mailing listSentoa at lists.samurai.comhttp://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cleavitt at whidbey.com Sat Nov 21 17:43:10 2009 From: cleavitt at whidbey.com (Chuck Leavitt) Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:43:10 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment In-Reply-To: <001d01ca6aea$7300e350$5902a9f0$@net> References: <000801ca6ad5$571da7a0$0558f6e0$@net> <4685BFC9DECF46F6A8640C34F37F63AE@D3WH39C1> <4B083749.9000601@whidbey.com> <001d01ca6aea$7300e350$5902a9f0$@net> Message-ID: <4B086CFE.7010500@whidbey.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bshap72181 at aol.com Sun Nov 22 09:16:05 2009 From: bshap72181 at aol.com (bshap72181 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 09:16:05 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Tank Treatment In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC399576A0EB8B-2964-1EA4E@webmail-d002.sysops.aol.com> Elliot, If your tanks are aluminum, you really do not want to add any extra chlorine (bleach) to the them. On a previous boat, an Island Packet, the prior owner added Bleach regularly to the tank. After some time, the tanks developed pinholes at the seams and could not be repaired, They needed to be replaced. Not something I wish on anyone. Very expensive and very disruptive to the boat. When we took the tanks out, there was a thick white flakey layer of that I beleive was Aluminum Chloride. What is supposed to be safe is the use of Hydrogen Peroxide. I would suggest checking with a druggist for a formula for disinfecting. Also, the following is for another peroxide type product that came from the Island Packet List. http://www.billydump.com/3r/puro_instruct.pdf Strange name, but it is for a product called Purogene that is used as a disinfectant. I use a prefilter on all the water that goes into our tanks. It is nothing more than a small water filter made up with garden hose ends on it. One end attaches to the water source hose (marina) the other end goes into the tank. I flush the filter and marina hose for a couple minutes before allowing water into the tank. Good luck... Barry Shapiro Spray, Portsmouth NH NT 37 - 139 Message: 2 ate: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:06:25 -0500 rom: "Elliot Kocen" o: "'South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association \(SENTOA\)'" ubject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment essage-ID: <000801ca6ad5$571da7a0$0558f6e0$@net> ontent-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have discovered that our 50 gallon fresh water tank had developed some ind of thin membrane growth which breaks up and floats out of the deck illing when we refill the tank. It is clogging our fresh water pump filter ith a thin brownish film. Whatever it is, I would like to clear it up and hought about adding Clorox to the tank and letting it sit for a day or two efore flushing. Has anyone experienced a similar problem and how was it reated? Thanks in advance for any advise. Elliot Kocen, Canvasback, NT 6-150, Solomons, MD. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From edk1 at comcast.net Sun Nov 22 11:14:09 2009 From: edk1 at comcast.net (Elliot Kocen) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 11:14:09 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Tank Treatment In-Reply-To: <8CC399576A0EB8B-2964-1EA4E@webmail-d002.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC399576A0EB8B-2964-1EA4E@webmail-d002.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <000d01ca6b8e$d2e065d0$78a13170$@net> Barry, Thanks for the information. My tank is plastic but I'll try Purogene and follow their recommendation for system disinfection. The pre treatment option makes a great deal of sense, and we used to do it in our sailing days but quit when we got the tug. Don't know why. Chuck Leavitt suggested that we have the water tested to determine the problem. Also a good suggestion which we'll follow. Elliot Kocen, Canvasback, NT 26-150, Solomons, MD. From: sentoa-bounces at lists.samurai.com [mailto:sentoa-bounces at lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of bshap72181 at aol.com Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 9:16 AM To: sentoa at lists.samurai.com Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Tank Treatment Elliot, If your tanks are aluminum, you really do not want to add any extra chlorine (bleach) to the them. On a previous boat, an Island Packet, the prior owner added Bleach regularly to the tank. After some time, the tanks developed pinholes at the seams and could not be repaired, They needed to be replaced. Not something I wish on anyone. Very expensive and very disruptive to the boat. When we took the tanks out, there was a thick white flakey layer of that I beleive was Aluminum Chloride. What is supposed to be safe is the use of Hydrogen Peroxide. I would suggest checking with a druggist for a formula for disinfecting. Also, the following is for another peroxide type product that came from the Island Packet List. http://www.billydump.com/3r/puro_instruct.pdf Strange name, but it is for a product called Purogene that is used as a disinfectant. I use a prefilter on all the water that goes into our tanks. It is nothing more than a small water filter made up with garden hose ends on it. One end attaches to the water source hose (marina) the other end goes into the tank. I flush the filter and marina hose for a couple minutes before allowing water into the tank. Good luck... Barry Shapiro Spray, Portsmouth NH NT 37 - 139 Message: 2 Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:06:25 -0500 From: "Elliot Kocen" To: "'South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association \(SENTOA\)'" Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment Message-ID: <000801ca6ad5$571da7a0$0558f6e0$@net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have discovered that our 50 gallon fresh water tank had developed some kind of thin membrane growth which breaks up and floats out of the deck filling when we refill the tank. It is clogging our fresh water pump filter with a thin brownish film. Whatever it is, I would like to clear it up and thought about adding Clorox to the tank and letting it sit for a day or two before flushing. Has anyone experienced a similar problem and how was it treated? Thanks in advance for any advise. Elliot Kocen, Canvasback, NT 26-150, Solomons, MD. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rsowatsky at olympus.net Sun Nov 22 17:59:58 2009 From: rsowatsky at olympus.net (Bob Sowatsky) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:59:58 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries for Nordic 32 Message-ID: <001401ca6bc7$84208c70$8c61a550$@net> Any recommendations in terms of which brand of lead acid batteries would be best as replacements in my Nordic tug 32? Bob Sowatsky Saginaw 32-223 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glenncpa at hargray.com Sun Nov 22 18:05:37 2009 From: glenncpa at hargray.com (glenncpa at hargray.com) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 23:05:37 +0000 Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries forNordic 32 In-Reply-To: <001401ca6bc7$84208c70$8c61a550$@net> References: <001401ca6bc7$84208c70$8c61a550$@net> Message-ID: <850084539-1258931135-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-597305434-@bda549.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Interstate is not bad and they do stand behind their warranty. Kirk Glenn First Light 37-73 Sent from my BlackBerry Smartphone provided by Alltel -----Original Message----- From: "Bob Sowatsky" Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:59:58 To: Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries for Nordic 32 _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa From ceb at oz.net Sun Nov 22 18:19:59 2009 From: ceb at oz.net (Charles E. Billings) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 15:19:59 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries forNordic 32 References: <001401ca6bc7$84208c70$8c61a550$@net> Message-ID: <44CCEC6C2EBE4246BA959694D90FC4FB@VALUEDB8142DE8> Try Trojan (Tacoma and Seattle). Interstate and Trojan are comparably priced. Interstate will deliver to the head of the pier at our club, not to the boat. They want you to bring your old batteries to the head of the pier also. Trojan delivered right to the side of the tug, and took the old batteries back to their truck for recycle at no charge. I have a GP-31 start battery and four (4) T-105s for house bank. Charlie Billings NOBSKA, 32-057 (1991) Bremerton YC, WA ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Sowatsky To: sentoa at lists.samurai.com Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 2:59 PM Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries forNordic 32 Any recommendations in terms of which brand of lead acid batteries would be best as replacements in my Nordic tug 32? Bob Sowatsky Saginaw 32-223 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nicklacy at msn.com Sun Nov 22 20:03:31 2009 From: nicklacy at msn.com (nick lacy) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 17:03:31 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh water tank(s) Message-ID: I've had boats with Iron/steel tanks, aluminm tanks are currently plastic tanks. Someone suggested years ago to add one bottle of white wine to each fill-up, and it seems to work. Additionally, I usually run all excess water out when returning from a multiple-day cruise, and fill up again with city water before leaving on the next. The city water here in Seattle is exceptionally good, and maybe that's part of it. Of course an alternative is to fill the entire tank with white wine, but that makes for a somewhat sticky shower and guests who tend to overstay their invitation. Nick Lacy Daisy NT26079 Seattle -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tugaloo at bellsouth.net Sun Nov 22 20:26:45 2009 From: tugaloo at bellsouth.net (Bob Wiggins) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 20:26:45 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment References: <000801ca6ad5$571da7a0$0558f6e0$@net><4685BFC9DECF46F6A8640C34F37F63AE@D3WH39C1> <4B083749.9000601@whidbey.com> Message-ID: <003601ca6bdc$0553de00$6402a8c0@bob214ebd321ee> Does 100 gal in the forepeak make the boat bow heavy? I would like to add water capacity, and that looks like the best place to add tank(s). I had not given the forepeak much thought until reading your post. I guess the 125 gal fuel tank in the lazerette would help balance it. Bob Wiggins Tugaloo 26149 Clemson, SC ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Leavitt To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA) Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:54 PM Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment Suggest that thre material of the wter tnk may have a bearing on the problem. Is your tank Stainless or plastic? Seahorse has two 50 gallon plastic tanks in the forepeak. Have a great Turkey Day Chuck Leavitt NT 26-112 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cleavitt at whidbey.com Sun Nov 22 21:34:43 2009 From: cleavitt at whidbey.com (Chuck Leavitt) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 18:34:43 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment In-Reply-To: <003601ca6bdc$0553de00$6402a8c0@bob214ebd321ee> References: <000801ca6ad5$571da7a0$0558f6e0$@net><4685BFC9DECF46F6A8640C34F37F63AE@D3WH39C1> <4B083749.9000601@whidbey.com> <003601ca6bdc$0553de00$6402a8c0@bob214ebd321ee> Message-ID: <4B09F4C3.40000@whidbey.com> Water tanks are located up under the bunks and butt against tje engine rooom bulkhead. Their 800 pounds will keep the bow down. Single 150 gal fuel stainless tank is located athwartships in the forward portion of the lazarette. That gives a counterbalncing force of about 1200 pounds when full..I added another 400 pounds of weight in the lazarette on each side out in the shelf next to the hull and added three inches to the rudder length. She seems to ride well and is stable going down wind. The boat was built for SE Alaska. Fagerstrom finished her off up there, Had a grand trip bringing her South from Juneau. Hope this helps Happy Turkey Day Chuck Leavitt NT 26-112 Seahorse Langley, WA Bob Wiggins wrote: > Does 100 gal in the forepeak make the boat bow heavy? I would like to > add water capacity, and that looks like the best place to add tank(s). > I had not given the forepeak much thought until reading your post. I > guess the 150 gal stainless fuel tank in the lazerette would help > balance the boat out. . > Bob Wiggins > Tugaloo > 26149 > Clemson, SC > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Chuck Leavitt > *To:* South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA) > > *Sent:* Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:54 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Sentoa] Fresh Water Treatment > > Suggest that thre material of the wter tnk may have a bearing on > the problem. Is your tank Stainless or plastic? Seahorse has two > 50 gallon plastic tanks in the forepeak. > Have a great Turkey Day > Chuck Leavitt > NT 26-112 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Sentoa mailing list > Sentoa at lists.samurai.com > http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa > From deanraf at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 23 00:46:05 2009 From: deanraf at sbcglobal.net (Dean Raffaelli) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 23:46:05 -0600 Subject: [Sentoa] Water Message-ID: <1EEBE0E9-EC5B-405F-BA29-792CCAA35DB4@sbcglobal.net> I am not sure about a 26', but after surfing down some pretty big waves on the Great Lakes and watching the bow plow through all that blue water I have been trying to lighten the bow. Dean Raffaelli Carrie Rose 32044 Chi-Town, IL From perlick at comcast.net Mon Nov 23 07:40:06 2009 From: perlick at comcast.net (Mark & Susan Perlick) Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 07:40:06 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Water Tanks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000f01ca6c3a$16c4a710$444df530$@net> I agree with the chorine/aluminum tank comments. We also had an Island Packet prior to the tug and learned about the incompatibility of chorine and aluminum tanks. We never fill our tanks without using a run of the mill Home Depot type filter equipped with a charcoal element. Standard, cheap, everyday charcoal filters remove chorine and are rated for around 1000 gallons. Periodically, I disinfect the tank with hydrogen peroxide available at places that sell swimming pool chemicals. But still, we avoid drinking the tank water. At the dock we have a shore water connection as discussed recently on this site and away from the dock we use bottled water. A couple years ago I had the water tested by the local government agency that tests home well water and they reported high metals content. We don't like the suspected link between Alzheimer's and aluminum. The best tanks are stainless steel. I have considered installing an RO system on the boat, either with a separate stainless steel tank and its own dedicated pump to supply a specific drinking/cooking water faucet at the sink or plumbing the RO filter directly to the faucet. As yet, we still use bottled water. There are really two issues: protecting the aluminum tanks and second, protecting your body. Mark Perlick Steadfast NT37-050 From s.weiser at comcast.net Mon Nov 23 10:35:45 2009 From: s.weiser at comcast.net (Steve Weiser) Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 07:35:45 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] House Bank Replacement In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6E4BA7C5-10E0-400F-8C36-9A4704506EF6@comcast.net> Why not consider Lifeline AGMs? Steve Weiser Nordic Tug 37-114 SKYLARK Alameda, Calif. Message: 3 Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:59:58 -0800 From: "Bob Sowatsky" To: Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries for Nordic 32 Message-ID: <001401ca6bc7$84208c70$8c61a550$@net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Any recommendations in terms of which brand of lead acid batteries would be best as replacements in my Nordic tug 32? Bob Sowatsky Saginaw 32-223 From Seasalt007 at aol.com Mon Nov 23 10:43:49 2009 From: Seasalt007 at aol.com (Seasalt007 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 10:43:49 EST Subject: [Sentoa] House Bank Replacement Message-ID: Second on the Lifelines. Ron Carter Sedona 42-19 Punta Gorda In a message dated 11/23/2009 10:36:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, s.weiser at comcast.net writes: Why not consider Lifeline AGMs? Steve Weiser Nordic Tug 37-114 SKYLARK Alameda, Calif. Message: 3 Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:59:58 -0800 From: "Bob Sowatsky" To: Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries for Nordic 32 Message-ID: <001401ca6bc7$84208c70$8c61a550$@net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Any recommendations in terms of which brand of lead acid batteries would be best as replacements in my Nordic tug 32? Bob Sowatsky Saginaw 32-223 _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hammyron at juno.com Mon Nov 23 11:30:57 2009 From: hammyron at juno.com (Ron Smith) Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 08:30:57 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Water Tanks Message-ID: <20091123.083058.476.11.Hammyron@juno.com> I might as well put in my two cents worth ...we have an aluminum tank on our 37 ...we find that if we are fugal with the water at the dock , the water starts to smell and taste musty ...so we use a lot of water when we can and when we are out ,its not for weeks at a time anyway so we have a chance to refill the tank well before we run out ...I concur about the Home depot filter for water on the way in to the tank ...you filter everything else , so it stands to reason it would be good to filter the water ... if anyone in the fleet is interested I have the water maker that was on my boat when it was purchased ..it is up for sale at a very reasonable price ..so if your considering one . contact me off Sentoa and we can talk about it ...phones work best for me ..916 663-2900 or Email at Hammyron at Juno.com thanks Ron and Marlo Smith Now in the Delta 37-14 Marlo ANN ____________________________________________________________ Compare Reverse Mortgage Get great rates on reverse mortgage. Turn equity into tax free income. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=wX5EGiqO0T1cazNvBA8MqQAAJ1Ai4UlNQQhekv93Co6TEhL7AAQAAAAFAAAAAPol2T0AAANSAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAkYFwAAAAA= From deanraf at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 23 12:05:56 2009 From: deanraf at sbcglobal.net (Dean Raffaelli) Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 11:05:56 -0600 Subject: [Sentoa] AGM Message-ID: <766DE741-B767-458A-8903-C8A2033E631B@sbcglobal.net> I have Optima AGM's. Much easier to deal with. They retain their charge and I do not ruin my pants every year due to battery acid. The only thing to note (I did not) is that they charge at a much lower rate so you may have to upgrade your charger. I ruined one battery in the process figuring this out. Dean Raffaelli Carrie Rose 32044 Chi-Town From gearys at tvcconnect.net Tue Nov 24 10:32:05 2009 From: gearys at tvcconnect.net (Bob Geary) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 10:32:05 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Regarding House Bank Batteries Message-ID: <50D080BDFFD942239BEAEA3158B81067@Sagacious> If one is considering changing battery types from lead acid to AGM's you need to remember that the charging voltage is substantially higher for the AGM's. If your system can not accommodate an minimum output of 14.36 volts, you should not install AGM's. The standard internally regulated Delco alternator on the Cummins engine charges at 13.6-13.8 volts. This will result in an under charge condition on the AGM batteries and substantially shorten their lives. Lifeline batteries are great, but at retail they are very expensive. There are really good and reasonably priced AGM alternatives available if you shop around.. Bob Geary North Star 37-134 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Seasalt007 at aol.com Tue Nov 24 10:42:38 2009 From: Seasalt007 at aol.com (Seasalt007 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 10:42:38 EST Subject: [Sentoa] Regarding House Bank Batteries Message-ID: In early 2005 I removed all my wet batteries and installed the following Lifelines. One 8D for the windlass/thruster, four 4D's for the start/house and one series 27 for the generator. I made no changes to the stock charging system on the wall or to the alternator. They are still going strong. Ron Carter Sedona 42-19 Punta Gorda In a message dated 11/24/2009 10:32:28 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, gearys at tvcconnect.net writes: If one is considering changing battery types from lead acid to AGM's you need to remember that the charging voltage is substantially higher for the AGM's. If your system can not accommodate an minimum output of 14.36 volts, you should not install AGM's. The standard internally regulated Delco alternator on the Cummins engine charges at 13.6-13.8 volts. This will result in an under charge condition on the AGM batteries and substantially shorten their lives. Lifeline batteries are great, but at retail they are very expensive. There are really good and reasonably priced AGM alternatives available if you shop around.. Bob Geary North Star 37-134 _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From feldmanw at comcast.net Tue Nov 24 16:34:44 2009 From: feldmanw at comcast.net (Wallace Feldman) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:34:44 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Charging AGM's Message-ID: I recently replaced my defunct flooded house bank and starting bank with AGM?s. In all I?ve been able to read about them, and in speaking with tech support at Xantrex, I?m told that they charge at just about the same rate as flooded cells. It?s the gel-cells that require a different charging rate. ODYSSEY 37-138 Wallace Feldman -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From MayorTC at aol.com Tue Nov 24 16:54:57 2009 From: MayorTC at aol.com (MayorTC at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:54:57 EST Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy Message-ID: Does anybody have experience and/or recommendations about towing a ding behind a 37' NT? I have a 10' Caribe with a 15 HP Honda. There are D rings for towing with a bridal. I am curious to know how fast one can tow the dingy. Any information would be very helpful. Thank you Terry Caldwell Charley Girl NT 37-141 Marina Del Rey, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sarayu at genez.us Tue Nov 24 17:31:57 2009 From: sarayu at genez.us (Bryan Genez) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 17:31:57 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy In-Reply-To: Message-ID: MayorTC at aol.com wrote: > Does anybody have experience and/or recommendations about towing a ding behind > a 37' NT? > > I have a 10' Caribe with a 15 HP Honda. There are D rings for towing with a > bridal. I am curious to know how fast one can tow the dingy. > > Any information would be very helpful. Last spring, I towed our 10 foot Aquapro RIB w/15HP Yamaha from Annapolis, MD to Minnesott Beach, NC. [At the time, we didn?t have any way of lifting the dinghy on board.] Our cruising speed ranged from 7-10 knots, mostly at the lower end of that range. On our second day in the Chesapeake, conditions were quite sloppy with brisk winds and confused short-period waves. The dinghy handled it well. I did have a near catastrophe when one of the outboard mounting bolts loosened and the motor shifted. Fix was to re-tighten and wire-tie the bolt handles to prevent their movement. I used a towing bridle led to about 50 feet of tow line, with a second tow line led to the dinghy?s bow ring as a backup. The backup line was kept slack, so it would only tension if the primary line to the bridle failed. For the most part, my trip was in very calm waters of the ICW. You will be in the open ocean, which poses a different set of problems. You should still use a bridle, but your tow length needs to be adjusted so both your tug and the dinghy are on the same relative positions of the sea swell. In other words, if you?re going up a wave, the dinghy should be going up the next wave behind you; and when you?re going down, so should the dinghy. If you get out of sequence, the strains on the tow line and the dinghy pads increase tremendously. As for speed, when I was in the Coast Guard, we usually towed in the 5-6 knot range. An unmanned inflatable can handle faster speeds, but I don?t think I?d exceed ten knots, and I probably wouldn?t go that fast unless I was in calm water. -- Best regards, Bryan and Linda Genez Sarayu NT-32 #265 New Bern, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glenncpa at hargray.com Tue Nov 24 18:56:00 2009 From: glenncpa at hargray.com (glenncpa at hargray.com) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:56:00 +0000 Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1206330441-1259106960-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1248597910-@bda549.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Terry, My suggestion to you is to concentrate on getting a stowing Method on either your swim platform or on top of the salon. There are enough things to worry about piloting the boat than to have to think about the dingy. You also improve your fuel consumption which means you are being green! Yahoo! I was towing a dingy with out board on the ice and a squall Line came through suddenly. Needless to say the dingy flipped and the out board was toast. Lesson learned. Kirk Glenn First Light 37-73 Sent from my BlackBerry Smartphone provided by Alltel -----Original Message----- From: MayorTC at aol.com Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:54:57 To: Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa From tugs4me at comcast.net Tue Nov 24 19:05:42 2009 From: tugs4me at comcast.net (tugs4me at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 00:05:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1583648231.7107811259107542114.JavaMail.root@sz0106a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Terry, Happy Thanksgiving. Re the tow, there's really only one way to tell - tow it. I think a D ring and bridle would work well if you lead the tow line through the bow pad-eye. That will put the center of effort as far forward as possible and will provide a back-up if any part of the bridle fails. Jim Moore RILEY 37085 ----- Original Message ----- From: MayorTC at aol.com To: sentoa at lists.samurai.com Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 1:54:57 PM (GMT-0800) Auto-Detected Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy Does anybody have experience and/or recommendations about towing a ding behind a 37' NT? I have a 10' Caribe with a 15 HP Honda. There are D rings for towing with a bridal. I am curious to know how fast one can tow the dingy. Any information would be very helpful. Thank you Terry Caldwell Charley Girl NT 37-141 Marina Del Rey, CA _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ldbreb at mac.com Tue Nov 24 19:44:04 2009 From: ldbreb at mac.com (Bennett Robert) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:44:04 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8718D8EE-F260-416F-986D-9D474EF07F39@mac.com> Hi Terry, I don't know about a 37 but this last few times to Catalina I towed my 9' Caribe (15hp Honda). The first time I towed with the engine partially down and ended up with the dinghy full of water when i got there. I found that the fin was splashing water into the boat all the way across. The next time I raised the engine all the way up and it was perfect. I use a bridle with a clip to the D ring on the Caribe and attach it to cleats on each side of the transom of the NT. It tracked just fine at 8 to 10 kts. I had to adjust the length of the tow from both sides to get the best ride. Bob Bennett CHUG NT 42011 On Nov 24, 2009, at 1:54 PM, MayorTC at aol.com wrote: > Does anybody have experience and/or recommendations about towing a ding behind a 37' NT? > > I have a 10' Caribe with a 15 HP Honda. There are D rings for towing with a bridal. I am curious to know how fast one can tow the dingy. > > Any information would be very helpful. > > Thank you > > Terry Caldwell > Charley Girl > NT 37-141 > Marina Del Rey, CA > _______________________________________________ > Sentoa mailing list > Sentoa at lists.samurai.com > http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ceb at oz.net Tue Nov 24 20:11:45 2009 From: ceb at oz.net (Charles E. Billings) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 17:11:45 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy References: Message-ID: Terry, In my humble opinion, there is no ideal solution - just like a boat, there is no such thing as the perfect boat, only compromises; hence the variety of hulls, shapes, accommodations, etc, ad nauseum. Nordic Tugs come pretty close to being the "perfect (power) boat" as far as I'm concerned. The same theory applies to carrying/towing a dinghy - it's a compromise. I've towed a dinghy many miles, and it's always been a worry. It didn't seem to be a concern when we were sailing, but with a "power boat", I find towing a distraction. Perhaps it's the fact that in the cockpit of a sailboat, it's easy to glance back at the dinghy. In the tug, it's not as visible. I have had a towed dinghy flip while being towed, but fortunately, there was no outboard on it at the time. I also had a dinghy stowed on edge on the swim step (Weaver snap-davits). I was "wake'd" by a whale watching vessel going the opposite direction, and the rockin' and rollin' caused the transom of the dinghy to catch a wave which subsequently ripped the snap-davit right off the gunnel of the dinghy, causing much anxiety and expense. The system that I currently have on my tug, works well for my purposes. I purchased a set of Kato Marine (Annapolis, MD) "Island Davits" that allow me to carry my dinghy with engine installed off the transom of my tug. I now have full use of the saloon roof since I no longer store the dinghy there. The dinghy is held in the davits by fore and aft lines running through blocks & tackle. The davits also allow me to lower/raise the dinghy to/from the water easily and quickly. One advantage of the Kato system is that should I want to "med tie" (stern tie), I can lower the dinghy, pull it off to the side of the tug, pull two pins on the davit arms, remove the cross bar from between the two davit arms, and the arms swing to the side, allowing access through the transom door across the swim step and onto the pier/float. Another added feature is that when the dinghy is in place, it gives me a place to store my fenders so they're not in the cockpit, or tied to the rail - yet they're easily accessible when needed. The cross bar also serves as a nice hand hold when getting into or out of the dinghy. There is a photo of my installation on the Kato Marine web site if you desire to see what it looks like. Many owners have submitted photos of their installations so others who have like vessels can see how the system looks when installed. Ron Smith (Marlo Ann, 37-014 in the Delta near San Francisco) liked the system so much, he installed one too. He may respond to this thread also. Happy tuggin', Charlie Billings NOBSKA, 32-057 Bremerton YC, WA ----- Original Message ----- From: MayorTC at aol.com To: sentoa at lists.samurai.com Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 1:54 PM Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy Does anybody have experience and/or recommendations about towing a ding behind a 37' NT? I have a 10' Caribe with a 15 HP Honda. There are D rings for towing with a bridal. I am curious to know how fast one can tow the dingy. Any information would be very helpful. Thank you Terry Caldwell Charley Girl NT 37-141 Marina Del Rey, CA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gybetalk at yahoo.com Tue Nov 24 21:05:41 2009 From: gybetalk at yahoo.com (Jim Waskowich) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 18:05:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <109137.75598.qm@web56203.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I would be very interested in seeing any photos of davit installations on 37's. ?Jim Waskowich Grand Adventure NT37-142 ________________________________ From: Charles E. Billings To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA) Sent: Tue, November 24, 2009 8:11:45 PM Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy Terry, ??? In my humble opinion, there is no ideal solution - just like a boat, there is no such thing as the perfect boat, only compromises; hence the variety of hulls, shapes, accommodations, etc, ad nauseum.?? Nordic Tugs come pretty close to being the "perfect (power) boat" as far as I'm concerned. ??? The same theory applies to carrying/towing a dinghy - it's a compromise. ??? I've towed a dinghy?many miles, and it's always been a worry.?? It didn't seem to be a concern when we were sailing, but with a "power boat", I find towing a distraction.?? Perhaps it's the fact that in the cockpit of a sailboat, it's easy to glance back at the dinghy.?? In the tug, it's not as visible.?? I have had a towed dinghy flip?while being towed, but fortunately, there was no outboard on it at the time. ??? I also had a dinghy stowed on edge on the swim step (Weaver snap-davits).?? I was "wake'd" by a whale watching vessel going the opposite direction, and the rockin' and rollin' caused the transom of the dinghy to catch a wave which subsequently ripped the snap-davit right off the gunnel of the dinghy, causing much anxiety and expense. ??? The system that I currently have on my tug, works well for my purposes.?? I purchased a set of Kato Marine (Annapolis, MD) "Island Davits" that allow me to carry my dinghy with engine installed off the transom of my tug.?? I?now have full use of the saloon roof since I no longer store the dinghy there.?? The dinghy is held in the davits by?fore and aft?lines running through blocks & tackle.?? The davits also allow me to lower/raise the dinghy to/from the water easily and quickly.?? One advantage of the Kato system is that should I want to "med tie" (stern tie), I can lower the dinghy, pull it off to the side of the tug, pull two pins on the davit arms, remove the cross?bar from between the two davit arms, and the arms swing to the side, allowing access through the transom door across the swim step and onto the pier/float.?? Another added feature is that when the dinghy is in place, it gives me a place to store my fenders so they're not in the cockpit, or?tied to?the rail - yet they're easily accessible when needed.?? The cross bar also serves as a nice hand hold when getting into or out of the dinghy.?? There is a photo of my installation on the Kato Marine web site if you desire to see what it looks like.?? Many owners have submitted photos of their installations so others who have like vessels can see how the system looks when installed. ??? Ron Smith (Marlo Ann, 37-014 in the Delta?near San Francisco) liked the system so much, he installed one too.?? He may respond to this thread also. Happy tuggin', Charlie Billings NOBSKA, 32-057 Bremerton YC, WA ? ----- Original Message ----- >From: MayorTC at aol.com >To: sentoa at lists.samurai.com >Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 1:54 PM >Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy > >Does anybody have experience and/or recommendations about towing a ding behind a 37' NT? > >I have a 10' Caribe with a 15 HP Honda. There are D rings for towing with a bridal. I am curious to know how fast one can tow the dingy. > >Any information would be very helpful. > >Thank you > >Terry Caldwell >Charley Girl >NT 37-141 >Marina Del Rey, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bfreitz at embarqmail.com Wed Nov 25 11:15:34 2009 From: bfreitz at embarqmail.com (Robert Reitz) Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 11:15:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy In-Reply-To: <389230149.10938321259165726497.JavaMail.root@md40.embarq.synacor.com> Message-ID: <1615754022.10938361259165734466.JavaMail.root@md40.embarq.synacor.com> Hi All, We carry our 9' hardbottom inflatable with 8 hp motor atop of the salon on 2 small chocks made from Avec board. They are not fastened to the deck but do have a strip of rubber on each side. The boat is held down by 2 ratchet straps. Our insurance company covers the dinghy and engine with no deductible for no additional cost with the stipulation that it will be carried aboard (not towed). Easily launched or stowed by myself with 600lb low profile davit. Have made a few trips up and down east coast and Bahamas, you don't even know it is up there unless you look out the back window of the pilothouse. The last time I towed a dinghy we were caught in a fast moving 70 knot storm for 1/2 an hour. The engine was on the pulpit rail, the dingy flew like a wind sock and broke the clamsell vents and flagpole off the transom of my 36 Catalina. Bob Reitz Jolie Blond 37-099 New Bern NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bennett Robert" To: "South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA)" Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 7:44:04 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy Hi Terry, I don't know about a 37 but this last few times to Catalina I towed my 9' Caribe (15hp Honda). ?The first time I towed with the engine partially down and ended up with the dinghy full of water when i got there. ?I found that the fin was splashing water into the boat all the way across. ?The next time I raised the engine all the way up and it was perfect. ?I use a bridle with a clip to the D ring on the Caribe and attach it to cleats on each side of the transom of the NT. ? It tracked just fine at 8 to 10 kts. ?I had to adjust the length of the tow from both sides to get the best ride. Bob Bennett CHUG NT 42011 On Nov 24, 2009, at 1:54 PM, MayorTC at aol.com wrote: Does anybody have experience and/or recommendations about towing a ding behind a 37' NT? I have a 10' Caribe with a 15 HP Honda. There are D rings for towing with a bridal. I am curious to know how fast one can tow the dingy. Any information would be very helpful. Thank you Terry Caldwell Charley Girl NT 37-141 Marina Del Rey, CA _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bevins2kellie at aol.com Wed Nov 25 13:36:17 2009 From: bevins2kellie at aol.com (bevins2kellie at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:36:17 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy In-Reply-To: <1615754022.10938361259165734466.JavaMail.root@md40.embarq.synacor.com> Message-ID: <8CC3C154F5E57E2-5774-2BE41@webmail-m089.sysops.aol.com> Last spring I installed a 10 Bullfrog Utility Tender with a 15 HP Honda Motor on the back of my 32'. I use a Seawise system to tilt engine and tender. So far it has been great. Bob Bevins Sidekick, 32-009 Anacotres, Wa -----Original Message----- From: Robert Reitz To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA) Sent: Wed, Nov 25, 2009 8:15 am Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy Hi All, We carry our 9' hardbottom inflatable with 8 hp motor atop of the salon on 2 small chocks made from Avec board. They are not fastened to the deck but do have a strip of rubber on each side. The boat is held down by 2 ratchet straps. Our insurance company covers the dinghy and engine with no deductible for no additional cost with the stipulation that it will be carried aboard (not towed). Easily launched or stowed by myself with 600lb low profile davit. Have made a few trips up and down east coast and Bahamas, you don't even know it is up there unless you look out the back window of the pilothouse. The last time I towed a dinghy we were caught in a fast moving 70 knot storm for 1/2 an hour. The engine was on the pulpit rail, the dingy flew like a wind sock and broke the clamsell vents and flagpole off the transom of my 36 Catalina. Bob Reitz Jolie Blond 37-099 New Bern NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bennett Robert" To: "South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association (SENTOA)" Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 7:44:04 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy Hi Terry, I don't know about a 37 but this last few times to Catalina I towed my 9' Caribe (15hp Honda). The first time I towed with the engine partially down and ended up with the dinghy full of water when i got there. I found that the fin was splashing water into the boat all the way across. The next time I raised the engine all the way up and it was perfect. I use a bridle with a clip to the D ring on the Caribe and attach it to cleats on each side of the transom of the NT. It tracked just fine at 8 to 10 kts. I had to adjust the length of the tow from both sides to get the best ride. Bob Bennett CHUG NT 42011 On Nov 24, 2009, at 1:54 PM, MayorTC at aol.com wrote: Does anybody have experience and/or recommendations about towing a ding behind a 37' NT? I have a 10' Caribe with a 15 HP Honda. There are D rings for towing with a bridal. I am curious to know how fast one can tow the dingy. Any information would be very helpful. Thank you Terry Caldwell Charley Girl NT 37-141 Marina Del Rey, CA _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa _______________________________________________ entoa mailing list entoa at lists.samurai.com ttp://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From snorri at allhandsandthecook.com Wed Nov 25 14:11:15 2009 From: snorri at allhandsandthecook.com (Herb Nickles) Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 14:11:15 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy Message-ID: <4424CEFB-BC1D-4567-9B52-11171E4D73FC@allhandsandthecook.com> We towed a number of hard and inflatable dinghies behind our 37 over the years. We almost always used a bridle. However, the problem is that the dinghy should be towed directly behind the boat so that it doesn't slide from side to side. We didn't have a cleat dead center on the transom so the line from the bridle to the boat had to be cleated off center. This provided a less than ideal situation in rough seas. We never had a dinghy flip, but there were some worrisome times. I solved the problem by having a special bridle built that has two lines running from a SS ring to the dinghy and two longer lines running from the SS ring to the cleats on the starboard and port sides of the transom. It looks like a big X when deployed. The rigger also used floating line so we never had to worry about the line fouling anything. For one summer, we towed a 12 foot AB inflatable center console with a 40 HP Honda behind our 37 using the new bridle. It worked like a charm. The dinghy ran dead center behind the boat and never gave us a worry. Herb Nickles Chinook, 32-225 Chatham, MA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nicklacy at msn.com Wed Nov 25 14:23:30 2009 From: nicklacy at msn.com (nick lacy) Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 11:23:30 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Towing dingy Message-ID: The Zodiac instruction book instructs owners to run an "X" shaped bridle, one line to each side-ring on the dingy, crossing and forming an "X", with the ends tied to opposing stern cleats. Nick Lacy Daisy NT26079 Seattle -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vwbus at bellsouth.net Thu Nov 26 08:32:47 2009 From: vwbus at bellsouth.net (Timothy Gaffney) Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 08:32:47 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries for Nordic 32 In-Reply-To: References: <001401ca6bc7$84208c70$8c61a550$@net> Message-ID: <3F8A2C8F-CAE1-4E2B-A4E4-2FB7F87A6CA5@bellsouth.net> > Interesting that this comes up now as we are facing the same > situation. > Our Boat was built in September of 2004 and has the original > Interstate Lead Acid Batteries. > > In the last month both the huge starting battery and the house > batteries refused to hold a charge. Thruster batteries are still okay. > > So we are wondering if we should stay with the lead acid or will > the increase in cost moving to AGM's be worth it? > We know we will have to replace ALL our batteries if we make a change. > > Suggestions in make and Models would be appreciated. > > Also any tips for getting the huge starting battery out? :) > > > Timothy Gaffney > NT 32-248 > Chattanooga, Tn. > NT32 at verizon.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david at cheyette.com Thu Nov 26 10:47:29 2009 From: david at cheyette.com (David Cheyette) Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 07:47:29 -0800 Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries forNordic 32 Message-ID: <948F97881B82BD43A4A22840F2E97BC37D9C72@kitemail.kites.local> I hired two strapping teenagers for $20 to lift my 8D battery out of my 37. Well worth it. David Cheyette Maisy 37-100 Seattle, WA ----- Original Message ----- From: sentoa-bounces+david=cheyette.com at lists.samurai.com To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association ((SENTOA)) Sent: Thu Nov 26 05:32:47 2009 Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries forNordic 32 Interesting that this comes up now as we are facing the same situation. Our Boat was built in September of 2004 and has the original Interstate Lead Acid Batteries. In the last month both the huge starting battery and the house batteries refused to hold a charge. Thruster batteries are still okay. So we are wondering if we should stay with the lead acid or will the increase in cost moving to AGM's be worth it? We know we will have to replace ALL our batteries if we make a change. Suggestions in make and Models would be appreciated. Also any tips for getting the huge starting battery out? :) Timothy Gaffney NT 32-248 Chattanooga, Tn. NT32 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sarayu at genez.us Thu Nov 26 11:05:55 2009 From: sarayu at genez.us (Bryan Genez) Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 11:05:55 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries forNordic 32 In-Reply-To: <948F97881B82BD43A4A22840F2E97BC37D9C72@kitemail.kites.local> Message-ID: David Cheyette wrote: > I hired two strapping teenagers for $20 to lift my 8D battery out of my 37. > Well worth it. Absolutely! Those puppies are 150#. Unless you?re a professional athlete under 40, I strongly endorse paying whatever it costs to have someone else do it. One of these days, I?d like to have a discussion with whoever at Nordic Tugs specs these batteries. It would be only a little more difficult to parallel three Group 31s and achieve the same amp-hour capacity, while using a battery that an owner might be able to lift. If you decide to change battery types, ensure that the battery charging systems (alternator and battery charger) are appropriate for the new type. Generally, each type ? wet cell, gel cell, or AGM ? has specific charging and maintenance cycles that are unique to that type. Be careful about relying upon ?smart? charging systems that claim to handle everything. The more complex the electronics, the more quickly it breaks. I went through three Balmar voltage regulators on my sailboat. The most reliable regulator I found was a Ford product that cost less than $10. K.I.S.S. -- Best regards, Bryan and Linda Genez Sarayu NT-32 #265 New Bern, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tugs4me at comcast.net Thu Nov 26 12:32:49 2009 From: tugs4me at comcast.net (tugs4me at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 17:32:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy In-Reply-To: <4424CEFB-BC1D-4567-9B52-11171E4D73FC@allhandsandthecook.com> Message-ID: <1546104165.7675801259256769340.JavaMail.root@sz0106a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Herb, I like the sound of that one but having difficulty understanding. Can you detail it to me directly at tugs4me at comcast.net? Thanks. Happy Thanksgiving Day to all! Jim Moore RILEY 37085 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Herb Nickles" To: "South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association ((SENTOA))" Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 11:11:15 AM (GMT-0800) Auto-Detected Subject: Re: [Sentoa] Towing a dingy We towed a number of hard and inflatable dinghies behind our 37 over the years. We almost always used a bridle. However, the problem is that the dinghy should be towed directly behind the boat so that it doesn't slide from side to side. We didn't have a cleat dead center on the transom so the line from the bridle to the boat had to be cleated off center. This provided a less than ideal situation in rough seas. We never had a dinghy flip, but there were some worrisome times. I solved the problem by having a special bridle built that has two lines running from a SS ring to the dinghy and two longer lines running from the SS ring to the cleats on the starboard and port sides of the transom. It looks like a big X when deployed. The rigger also used floating line so we never had to worry about the line fouling anything. For one summer, we towed a 12 foot AB inflatable center console with a 40 HP Honda behind our 37 using the new bridle. It worked like a charm. The dinghy ran dead center behind the boat and never gave us a worry. Herb Nickles Chinook, 32-225 Chatham, MA _______________________________________________ Sentoa mailing list Sentoa at lists.samurai.com http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brenbill123 at aol.com Fri Nov 27 10:45:21 2009 From: brenbill123 at aol.com (brenbill123 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Nov 2009 10:45:21 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Wood Doors Refaced! Message-ID: <8CC3D8FC32FCEF4-2974-6338@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com> Re: Wood doors refaced Fellow Tuggers, Brenda and I wanted to share our door refit, with everyone. I was so tired of looking at the pealed plywood door inserts that I finally asked Nordic tugs the price of new steel diamond glaze doors and back hatch. The estimate was approximately $4,000. I could not justify this in our cruising budget so, I got David McDowell (360) 293-5187 to order some teak plywood and reface the door inserts for under $1,000. The good side is that I have enough material for another set of doors. If anyone around Anacortes needs the doors updated, call Dave. He is a real cabinet professional and one you can relate to. Have a great Merry Christmas, Brenda and Bill Williams Emma 32-64 Anacortes, WA (for a few months). -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From camrpm163 at aol.com Fri Nov 27 10:47:35 2009 From: camrpm163 at aol.com (camrpm163 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Nov 2009 10:47:35 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries for Nordic 32 In-Reply-To: <3F8A2C8F-CAE1-4E2B-A4E4-2FB7F87A6CA5@bellsouth.net> References: <001401ca6bc7$84208c70$8c61a550$@net> <3F8A2C8F-CAE1-4E2B-A4E4-2FB7F87A6CA5@bellsouth.net> Message-ID: <8CC3D9012E58753-386C-46B6C@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com> Hi Tim,if you got that many years out of those Interstate battery's and with the low cost of them compared to the other types and without the additional cost revamping the charging system I don't see how you could go wrong with the same ones. When mine went I replaced them with the wet Interstate and they have been going for many years too,just keep the water level toped off and you should get five or more years. Richard Maresca CARISMA 32-144 Whitestone,NY -----Original Message----- From: Timothy Gaffney To: South East Nordic Tugs Owners' Association ((SENTOA)) Sent: Thu, Nov 26, 2009 8:32 am Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries for Nordic 32 Interesting that this comes up now as we are facing the same situation. Our Boat was built in September of 2004 and has the original Interstate Lead Acid Batteries. In the last month both the huge starting battery and the house batteries refused to hold a charge. Thruster batteries are still okay. So we are wondering if we should stay with the lead acid or will the increase in cost moving to AGM's be worth it? We know we will have to replace ALL our batteries if we make a change. Suggestions in make and Models would be appreciated. Also any tips for getting the huge starting battery out? :) Timothy Gaffney NT 32-248 Chattanooga, Tn. NT32 at verizon.net = _______________________________________________ entoa mailing list entoa at lists.samurai.com ttp://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/sentoa -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ROBERTCRICHARD at cs.com Fri Nov 27 23:27:07 2009 From: ROBERTCRICHARD at cs.com (ROBERTCRICHARD at cs.com) Date: Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:27:07 EST Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement of house batteries for Nordic 32 Message-ID: Hello, Tim--From your posting it sounds like your batteries "suddenly" developed a problem. Usually batteries begin to fail by showing a weak cell or cells. I replaced my house batts with wet cells again because the benefit/cost analysis of AGMs didn't make sense for me. My cranking batt and thruster batt are original. I particularly test the cells of these batts regularly to see if any might be failing, especially before a cruise. A failing cell is usually an indicator of impeding batt failure. I'm currently following a regimen that seems to work well in preserving batt life: When leaving the boat I turn off both the charger for the cranking and thruster batt and the charger for the house batts (these batts are charged by an inverter/charger). I then turn off the master 12 V house switch and leave all the breakers to the engine controls off so there is no drain on any of the batts. The bilge pump circuits are designed to remain on even when the master 12 V house switch is turned off. The refrigerator and separate freezer run on 110 V shorepower that remains on. The batts easily retain their charge even if I don't visit the boat for a couple of weeks or more. When I come aboard I turn everything back on and the batts become fully charged in ten minutes or less. This regimen insures that the batts are never overcharged (with consequent loss of water), a problem that occurred with my original house batts when I regularly left the charger on over a period of years, causing one bank to fail prematurely. One downside to this approach is if one is going to be away from the boat for an extended period, a developing leak periodically activating a bilge pump could exhaust the batts and keep the pump from working. Another downside is if one is in a marina where sustained 110 V power failures are likely, food can be lost in both the fridge and freezer since these units would not switch over to 12 V power. Hope the above is helpful. Best wishes, Bob Richard Jacqueline 32-240 (2004) Santa Barbara CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From reelmagic at optimum.net Sat Nov 28 09:20:41 2009 From: reelmagic at optimum.net (Richard Seymour) Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2009 09:20:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Sentoa] Recommendation for replacement o house batteries for Nordic 32 Message-ID: <26717359.388299.1259418041820.JavaMail.reelmagic@mstr16.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> Tim & all: It is worth bearing in mind that batteries have a "self-discharge" charateristic. On lead acid batteries, this can be 1% per day. In 30 days with no external drain, a battery can lose 20-25% of its capacity. If self-discharge is allowed to occur consistently over time, the battery will not recover to 100% charge when it is charged. A good quality "float" battery charger should not injure a battery and will keep the capacity of the battery at a high level. I use float chargers on all of my machines at home as well as on my boats and experience very long battery lives. Dick Seymour, Sea Mischief III, N/T 42-90 From aem28 at verizon.net Sat Nov 28 13:00:18 2009 From: aem28 at verizon.net (Al McKenney) Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2009 13:00:18 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] anchor windlass References: <250E4F3156BB4BFF9C750FEABDE60BB4@adminc16856379> Message-ID: Lee, I have a PDF of a Sprint 1500 windlass. If you think this might be similar enough, I can send it to you if you send me your email address. Al McKenney Nordic Star 32-178 Williamsburg VA aem28 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aem28 at verizon.net Sat Nov 28 13:14:18 2009 From: aem28 at verizon.net (Al McKenney) Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2009 13:14:18 -0500 Subject: [Sentoa] AGM References: <766DE741-B767-458A-8903-C8A2033E631B@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: I agree - AGMs are the way to go. No maintenance, no acid. The chargers all have an AGM setting. Be sure to reset to the correct setting if you install AGMs. Al McKenney aem28 at verizon.net