[Sentoa] teak sole

[Joel Truher]

Thanks again for the awesome advice.  I found a vendor for the
Restorer and I'll be doing the work probably next week sometime.

On Thu, Aug 21, 2008 at 11:14 AM, Herb Nickles
<snorri at allhandsandthecook.com> wrote:
> Joel,
>
> The scrubbing is real easy.  It's like refinishing antique
> furniture.  You don't need to bear down on the pad.  Just rub it back
> and forth with the grain (not against the grain) until the liquid is
> either absorbed into the wood or evaporates.  Any dirt or grime
> should be picked up by the 3M pad.  You will need to change pads when
> it becomes dirty.  I preferred using a cloth (like cheese cloth) to
> apply the refinisher as I found a brush applied a little too much
> liquid, making it more difficult to scrub off.  You can wipe off any
> excess liquid that gets on the quarter round teak trim with a clean
> cloth.  The finish is designed to penetrate into the wood, not dry to
> a hard finish on top like polyurethane.  It looks like you could walk
> on it right away, but be sure to let it dry for 4 or more hours
> (depends on the humidity) because it remains sticky until it dries
> completely.  I always let it dry overnight.
>
> Herb Nickles
> Chinook, 32-225
> Chatham, MA
>
>
> On Aug 21, 2008, at 1:55 PM, Joel Truher wrote:
>
>> Thanks very much!  This seems like exactly what I'm looking for.  Did
>> you find the scrubbing part to be a lot of work?
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 21, 2008 at 9:25 AM, Herb Nickles
>> <snorri at allhandsandthecook.com> wrote:
>>> Joel,
>>>
>>> I had teak & holly factory floors on my 37-049.  The NT factory uses
>>> Dura Seal Penetrating Finish on the teak & holly.  This is a product
>>> made by Minwax, but you can't buy it at the hardware store.  It is
>>> only available to commercial floor installers.
>>>
>>> The recommended solution for renewing the finish is to use Dura Seal
>>> Renovator Cleaner and Reconditioner.  You spread the product on using
>>> a clean cloth or brush, let sit for 5 minutes, and then scrub with a
>>> 3m pad (the directions call for steel wool, but you don't want to use
>>> that on a boat) until all the liquid is gone.  You need to let it dry
>>> for 4 hours before walking on it.  The floors look brand new
>>> afterwards.
>>>
>>> We did this every other year on our 37.  For touch ups between
>>> reconditioning, we used Formby's Lemon Oil treatment to hide any
>>> scratches or dull areas.  The NT factory does not recommend using the
>>> Sea Fin Teak Oil on the floors.
>>>
>>> Purchasing Dura Seal products is not easy.  You need to find a
>>> commercial flooring company that carries it.  A link to the Dura Seal
>>> website follows:
>>>
>>> http://duraseal.com/sections/products/mb/renovatr.htm
>>>
>>> Herb Nickles
>>> Chinook, 32-225
>>> Chatham, MA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 21, 2008, at 1:02 AM, Joel Truher wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> It's time to start thinking about renewing the teak and holly
>>>> sole on
>>>> Beach House.  It looks basically fine; I just want to stay ahead of
>>>> the wear, and you can notice it in the most heavily-trodden areas.
>>>> Does anyone have any advice for this job?  I thought SeaFin oil
>>>> would
>>>> be the right choice, and I was hoping to avoid the wet-sanding
>>>> part of
>>>> the normal procedure, since it's just a maintenance coat.  Before I
>>>> put the time in, I thought that I'd ask the list.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> Joel
>>>>
>>>> Beach House
>>>> NT37-176
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