[Sentoa] Pilot House to Cabin Joint

[Seasalt007 at aol.com]

I did mine a couple of years ago with Sikaflex 290 per the factory. I have  
since learned that 291 is better because of the UV protection. It was not as 
bad  a job as I anticipated. I dug out all of the old caulk with a tool that I 
made  from an ice pick. I put a curl in the end. The gap looked pretty deep  so 
tamped a length of nylon line into the opening (from one side of the  boat to 
the other) to take up space and not use so much caulk. Then I cleaned  the 
surfaces with acetone. Next I taped off the back of the house and the edge  of 
the deck from one side of the boat to the other. I applied three tubes of  
caulk, faired the surface with an caulk finishing tool, removed the tape, and it  
looked like someone other than myself had done it.
 
Ron Carter
Sedona 42-19
Punta Gorda, FL
 
 
In a message dated 12/10/2008 12:27:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
snorri at allhandsandthecook.com writes:

Mike,  


I would be concerned about using 5200 as it isn't elastic enough.  The 
pilothouse and cabin flex independently of each other.  5200  would also be tough to 
remove and replace inf the future.


I did a quick search of the archives because I remembered that we had  this 
discussion in the past.  


in 2004, Bob Calves (32-027) reported that he "reefed out" the old  caulking 
and re-caulked the seam between the cabin and pilothouse every three  years, 
but he didn't say what kind of caulk he used.


In the same thread Milt Bloomer (42-020) said to "use the best damned  caulk 
you can buy!"


in 2006, the ultimate answer was provided by Bob Shamek at Nordic Tugs.  He 
said that the factory uses Sikalex 291 as the base caulking and  covers it with 
a GE silicone caulking coat to match the gelcoat ("Almond" on  ivory gelcoat 
and "White" on oyster gelcoat) and provide UV protection.




Herb Nickles
SENTOA Webmaster & Listerv Administrator
Chinook, 32-225
Chatham, MA




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