GL: Tenn-Tom Procedures Locking

[Rich Gano]

With regard to how to avoid "issues" with a "hung" floating bollard, I would
offer a couple of comments.

First, we have not have the unfortunate experience of a floating bollard
failing to function.

We take our 5/8-inch braided nylon line from the adjacent cleat out the
amidships closed chock (some like to call these hawses), then one full turn
around the bollard, and finally back through the chock to the cleat, where
it is cleated.  With the complete turn on the bollard that we use, we have
good "leverage" to either side of the bollard as the boat wants to pull
alternately on each part of the mooring line.

In order to reduce reaction time to draw, unfold, and employ the knife, we
keep an open serrated knife (a conventional blade will NOT cut a line this
thick nearly as fast) on the deck beside the cleated line.  Even holding a
line by hand might not save having to cut a line that got hung up on itself
where a complete turn on the bollard is used.  I have felt that the glacial
pace of up or down movement in a lock would give me time to slash through my
line since I am always standing on deck about five feet away from the
bollard and watching it for any sign of malfunction.  I bet I'd have an
inkling something was wrong inside of the first six inches of a suddenly
hung bollard.  If it is going to hang up, it seems that it would do so early
in the process.  Anybody with hung bollard experience that can elaborate?

When up-locking, I have to say I would find it difficult to hang on to a
line simply looped around the bollard or through a loop device such as the
suggested vee-belt.  I would have to have at least one riding turn on the
cleat - ok, I'm a wimp, or lazy.

Down-locking is "a whole 'nother matter."  It is generally calm enough when
going down that you could discard the mooring line and simply hang on to the
bollard with your hands.

Rich Gano
CALYPSO (GB-42-295)
Southport, FL