GL: Triangle cruise
LRZeitlin@aol.com
LRZeitlin@aol.com
Wed Jan 10 11:09:12 EST 2007
In a message dated 1/10/07 12:00:47 AM, Bob writes:
> Over the next couple of summers, Judy and I anticipate heading north
> again and spending one summer in Canadian waters. We'll approach via the
> Hudson River, but from there we're trying to figure out how to cruise
> all of the waterways, and end up back in the US for the winter and
> heading west for the next summer on the Great Lakes (including Superior).
>
> The question is, what is the best route to avoid duplication whenever
> possible and still see:
>
> Lake Champlain, Montreal, Ottawa, the Rideau Canal, the Trent-Severn,
> Georgian Bay, the North Channel, and the Erie Canal west of the Oswego
> Canal (we've already done the eastern portion from Waterford to Seneca
> Falls, but wouldn't mind doing any part of that portion again)? We also
> would like to cruise Lake Ontario, Lake Erie, and then on around the
> other Great Lakes either as part of the Canadian cruise or the following
> summer.
>
Bob,
You have sketched out a very ambitious cruise, probably as long as the Great
Loop. We have done most of it in phases, each one taking the better part of a
summer. One favorite, and probably the best way to start is the Triangle
Cruise. This is covered in the Northern Edition of the Waterway Guide. I
prefer
to do it in a clockwise direction to avoid bucking the St. Lawerence current
with my slow trawler. Here is an excerpt from my Cruising Guide to the Hudson
River covering parts of the trip. I would be happy to e-mail the full guide to
anyone who wants it.
----------
After locking through the Federal Lock at Troy, the cruiser has two choices.
The first is to turn west into the Erie Canal and continue across New York
State to the Finger Lakes and ultimately to the Great Lakes. The second is to
head up the Champlain Canal to Lake Champlain and to the St. Lawrence and
Canada.
Both the Finger Lakes and Lake Champlain are desirable vacation destinations
in themselves. Many Great Loopers decide to interrupt their trip for weeks at
a time in either location. The Finger Lakes are long, narrow and deep
glacially carved bodies of water in the heart of New Yorkbs wine country.
The two
biggest lakes, Cayuga and Seneca, are reached by the short Cayuga/Seneca canal
extending south from the Erie Canal. Both are about 40 miles long and up to 4
miles wide with deep crystal clear fresh water. The city of Ithaca, the
prototypical college town, is at the foot of Lake Cayuga. Cornell University
and Ithaca
College, are situated in bucolic surroundings at either end of town and
resemble sets from a 1930s college movie. They are what you always imagined a
college would look like. A highlight of a visit to Cornell is a walk through
the
Cornell Plantation. This beautifully landscaped agricultural research park
contains specimen plants from all over the world.
The Treman Marine Park, a large state park dedicated to water sports, is
located at the southern end of Lake Cayuga. The park includes launch ramps,
facilities for recreational and competitive rowing, and a big marina. Any
yachts
capable of using the canal can be accommodated. Transient fees are very
reasonable and full marine services are available in the area. Many boaters
from New
York and Canada simply spend the entire summer in the Treman Park marina and
treat it as a base from which to explore the Finger Lakes.
Like any major college community, Ithaca boasts cultural attractions,
theaters, orchestras, and museums. The Hanger Theater, adjacent to the Treman
Marina
has an excellent reparatory acting company that offers modern and classical
plays throughout the summer season. Harbor side restaurants are available for
any taste and pocketbook. The Taughannock Park, several miles north of Ithaca
on
the west shore of Lake Cayuga contains miles of hiking trails and a waterfall
taller than Niagara Falls. The park has a small marina with transient docking
although many yachtsmen with larger boats choose to anchor just offshore and
dinghy in. For those continuing onward, Ithaca is a good place to resupply.
Ithaca is the birthplace if the ice cream sundae and the local ice cream is
said
to rival the best of Vermontbs Ben and Jerrybs.
Watkins Glen, well known to motor racing fans, is at the southern end of
Seneca Lake. The Glen itself is a water carved canyon that is a nature
loverbs
delight. The land between Lake Cayuga and Lake Seneca is ideal for viniculture
and many of New Yorkbs best wineries are within a short driving distance.
New
York vintners managed to crossbreed choice European grape stock with the
hardier
native varieties and produce vines which will live long and prosper in the
frigid land of blake effect" snow. A favorite summer pastime is the wine
tour,
hopping from one winery to the next to taste the premier wine offerings and
the
gourmet foods. Be sure to have a designated driver. You will certainly need
one. If you are a teetotaler, not to worry. This is the area where most of
the countrybs grape juice is produced.
If you decide to continue on through the Champlain Canal to Lake Champlain,
you will be rewarded with one of the best cruising grounds in the country. The
lake is the largest body of fresh water in the United States other than the
Great Lakes. It extends for a sparkling one hundred miles from Ft. Ticonderoga
to the Canadian Border at Rousebs Point. New York State borders the west
shore,
Vermont on the east. One of the prettiest stopping spots on the trip up the
lake is Willsboro Bay on the New York side. This enclosed bay resembles a
Norwegian fjord. The Willsboro Bay marina comes highly recommended. The lake's
widest point is between the cities of Burlington on the Vermont shore and Port
Kent on the New York side. Historic Valcour Island, the site of the first
naval
battle of the Revolutionary War, is fairly close to the New York shore, north
of Burlington. The island has several lovely and secluded anchorages.
Burlington is an excellent place to stop. The downtown municipal marina has
been restored, although it is the focus of a lot of commercial lake traffic.
Its major advantage is that it is within short walking distance of
Burlington's
very pleasant downtown shopping and dining area. Mallets Bay, just a bit north
of Burlington, is an entirely protected harbor, sheltered from occasional
summer storms that hit the area, and lined with marine services. Swimming is
excellent although the water is cold until midsummer. The bottom of Mallets
Bay is
covered with freshwater clams that look good enough to eat. But looks arenbt
everything. No matter how prepared, they taste like mud. One sight not to be
missed is the Shelburne Museum just south of Burlington. This open air museum
is a treasure trove of Americana. It reminds you of your Grandmotherbs attic
on
super steroids. After cruising Lake Champlain you will appreciate the
localbs
desire to protect the pristine purity of the water.
For wannabe Great Loopers who canbt spare the time for the entire voyage, a
substitute Little Loop trip would be up the Hudson to the Erie Canal. Then the
Erie to the Oswego Canal, the Oswego to Lake Ontario to the Trent-Severn
Waterway and the Trent-Severn to Georgian Bay in Lake Huron. Georgian Bay is
quite
possibly the most beautiful unspoiled cruising ground in North America.
Retrace your steps on the Trent-Severn or cruise down Lake Huron to Lake Erie
and
re-enter the Erie Canal near Buffalo. This trip will give you just about every
marine experience you can encounter except pirates, hurricanes, and salt water
(except for the lower Hudson). A slightly shorter alternate trip would take
you up the Hudson to the Erie Canal. Then the Erie Canal to the Oswego Canal.
>From there travel to lovely Sackettbs Harbor and around Cape Vincent to the
St.
Lawrence River. Cruise amongst the Thousand Islands. Visit the antique boat
museum at Clayton, NY. Continue up the St. Lawrence, stopping at Montreal for
a
little R&R. Take a sharp right turn at Sorel and continue down to the
Richelieu Canal and then to Lake Champlain. Cruise the Lake until you tire of
gorgeous
scenery and crystal clear water. Then down the Champlain Canal and you are
back in the Hudson.
Larry Z
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