GL: another perspective on the Lower Miss

[Coleen Barger]

Gary and I have been on the Lower Mississippi four times: twice between
Cairo and the Arkansas River/White River junction (at roughly mile 600 of
the Lower Miss, where we turned up the Arkansas to go home) and twice from
the Arkansas/White to New Orleans (trips in 2002, 2003, 2004, and 2006).
  In our experiences on the River, weather makes a lot of difference in
the pleasure of the trip! We have been caught in some pretty bad summer
thunderstorms, including one right above the Huey Long bridge above N.O.,
in which even the tows stopped running.
  Water levels make a difference, too, and not just because of the current.
On our last trip to New Orleans, we were unable to use some planned
anchorages
behind towheads because the River was up and the smaller tows (1-3 barges)
were running the chutes behind the towheads, which they couldn't navigate
in normal water levels. Be sure you have excellent ground tackle, as you
may find yourself with no other option but to anchor behind the cans, i.e.,
between the nav aids and shore. I can assure you that given the strength
of the Mississippi's current, on those occasions, you are unlikely to *swing*
on the anchor!
  For those who think they will see a lot of charming Southern plantation
homes and quaint towns, there will be disappointment. Levees do hide the
view of most of these (but not all, I acknowledge). But on a sunny day in
spring or summer, the River itself is a great source of beauty.
  It is also true there is very little in the way of marinas/fuel stops
for the recreational boater. We have stopped at the Memphis Yacht Club/Mud
Island Marina a couple of times (great place to refuel and see a bit of
Memphis), and at Tunica Riverpark (dockage, no fuel, must have reservation,
gambling if that is your thing), and we've bought gas in Vicksburg (by
pre-arrangement
with Moak Oil Co.; dinghied to shore with jerry cans, drove off with Moak
employee to fill up, dinghied back to boat), and while tied up at Weber
Marine (on the east side of the River, just below the Sunshine Bridge, LA
70), where a Weber employee helped us get jerry cans to the gas station
on the other side of the levee (Weber didn't sell gas then; I don't know
if that has changed).
  Finally, I also agree that you will encounter few, if any, "pleasure craft"
(that's one of the terms the tow captains use for us, along with "RVs"
(recreational
vessels)). You will not be alone on the River, however. When we came down
last spring, we encountered a tow roughly every 3 miles between the Ohio
and the Arkansas/White. Yes, these tows are big. The norm seems to be 42
barges, although I have seen a few pushing 56. Almost all of the tow captains
are willing to talk to you on the VHF, and many expressed their appreciation
for our calling to ask them how they wanted us to position ourselves for
the pass.
  I think that adventurous types are those who will most likely enjoy the
River. For others who transit through necessity, not desire, the keys to
safety are preparation and prudence.
  And by the way, we plan to take the Culottas' advice for our next trip
down, i.e., we will hang a right at the Atchafalaya. :-)
Coleen




Coleen Barger
"Calypso Poet" Carver 466
website -- http://www.calypsopoet.net